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A fruit stall loaded to the edge: pineapples, papayas, pomegranates, oranges and bananas, prices handwritten on scraps of paper.

Cairo · Bab el-Louk, Downtown

Bab el-Louk market

Downtown's food market: fruit, cheese, spices and fishmongers under a hall.

Budget

A neighbourhood hall and the streets around it, where central Cairo does its shopping: pyramids of mangoes in summer, white cheese in brine, olives, spices sold by measure. The opposite of a tourist market — people come to eat that evening.

The extra bit

Buy spices ground in front of you rather than in sealed bags: the only way to know what is inside.

Know before you go

Early morning for fish and vegetables; by afternoon, the best is gone.

Directions

Bab el-Louk, Downtown, Cairo

Directions

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