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Forty craft workshops under one roof, at posted prices.
CairoFustat, next to Coptic Cairo
Cairo's flea market: whatever the city threw out, sold again on a Friday morning.
CairoSayyida Aisha
The covered tentmakers' street south of Bab Zuweila: appliqué still sewn by hand.
CairoDarb el-Ahmar
Cairo's camel market, early in the morning: animals, sticks and dust.
GizaBirqash
One long covered street a block back from the river: hibiscus, Nubian basketry, spices.
AswanSouk
The city's big mall: international brands, supermarket and food court.
HurghadaAirport road, Hurghada
The seafront mall, next to the Hilton — smaller than Senzo, but on the Corniche.
HurghadaCorniche, Hurghada
The quarter from before the hotels: spices, copper, leather, shisha — and bargaining as the common language.
HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada
Souvenirs, jewellery and watches at marked prices — and nobody following you down the aisles.
HurghadaHurghada
A fixed-price bazaar on the Mamsha promenade, where you can walk in without being grabbed.
HurghadaMamsha, Hurghada
A neighbourhood bookshop with a few tables, where you stay longer than planned.
CairoZamalek
An independent bookshop and publisher, with a café where people work all afternoon.
CairoMaadi
The bookshop that reopened Cairo's appetite for reading, with a café corner at the back.
A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.
AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria
Sharm's old quarter: bazaars, ahwas and grills, far from the Naama Bay hotels.
Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh
The market of fabric by the metre, second-hand clothes and curtains: Cairo dresses here.
CairoBoulaq
The centre's biggest street market: everything is sold here, and everything is shouted.
CairoAttaba, Downtown
The Khan's goldsmiths, where gold is sold by the gram and the work is charged separately.
CairoKhan el-Khalili
An Egyptian craft shop facing the Ibn Tulun mosque, with no haggling and no pressure.
CairoIbn Tulun, Darb el-Ahmar
Crafts from rural cooperatives, at marked prices, with the workshop's name on the label.
Bedouin jewellery and Nubian silver, in a Zamalek gallery-flat.
Bookshop and crafts on the first floor of a Talaat Harb building, facing the Egyptian Museum.
CairoDowntown
Cairo's last hand bookbinding workshop, behind the al-Azhar mosque.
CairoAl-Azhar, Darb el-Ahmar
Nasr City's big mall: brands, cinemas and an indoor children's park.
CairoNasr City