Photo : Marsupium — CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Alexandria · Saad Zaghloul, Raml
Trianon
An early twentieth-century patisserie and brasserie, painted ceilings intact, on Saad Zaghloul Square.
The Trianon has the ground floor of the Metropole hotel on Saad Zaghloul Square, where the city meets the sea and where the Raml tram used to turn round — the line has been lifted and is being rebuilt. Panelling, murals and painted ceilings from the early twentieth century are all still there, which makes it one of the last cosmopolitan Alexandrian interiors never refurbished. There is a pastry counter at the front and, behind it, a café-restaurant where an hour goes by unhurried.
The extra bit
The light comes through the tall windows first thing, before the square wakes up and while the room is still nearly empty — the moment to look up at the ceilings.
Know before you go
As often in Egypt, a slice taken at the counter costs less than the same slice brought to your table. Service is slow by tradition. Saad Zaghloul Square is a noisy one, so ask for a table away from the door if you mean to talk.
