• Three coloured-glass lanterns hanging beneath a red and purple fabric canopy.

    Abou El Sid

    Egyptian cooking served in a dark oriental salon, cushions and lanterns included.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • Felfela

    Foul, taameya and salads in a grotto-like room, steps from Tahrir square.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetVegan options
  • Chunks of meat sizzling in a large frying pan, steam rising.

    Kebdet El Prince

    Our favourite

    The king of Alexandrian-style liver, served on pavement tables until the middle of the night.

    CairoImbaba

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Two peppers stuffed with minced meat in tomato sauce on a white plate.

    Fasahet Somaya

    Off the beaten track

    Home cooking, served in a tiny room, with the day's menu and nothing else.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three kofta skewers on flatbread with grilled vegetables, tomato salad and a red sauce.

    Taboula

    Levantine mezze in a vaulted cellar, close to the Corniche.

    CairoGarden City

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • A mezze plate: hummus with olives, flatbread, falafel and salad.

    Estoril

    A Downtown tavern where journalists, artists and regulars have met since 1969.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A white boat moored on the Nile, its upper deck under an awning, against a palm-lined bank.

    Le Pacha 1901

    A moored boat turned into several restaurants and bars, at Zamalek.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Le Grillon

    A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Smooth hummus, drizzled with olive oil and scattered with seeds.

    Egyptian cooking, reworked

    Koshari plated, molokheya on a tasting menu: Cairo's new table.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, New Cairo

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • New Cairo's food halls

    Twenty counters under one roof: the format that replaced the single restaurant.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Sliced, golden shawarma meat piled on a stainless steel plate.

    Bazooka

    Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.

    CairoCairo and Alexandria

    BudgetBudget
  • A large metal tray heaped with spiced yellow rice and pieces of meat, one with a lamb bone.

    Hadramout

    The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.

    CairoNasr City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of grilled kofta fingers on slate, with tahini, red sauce, grilled tomato and green chillies.

    El Dahan

    A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go