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Three whole fish clamped in a wire grill basket over the embers, with a plate of ash-baked potatoes beside them.

Luxor · Esna

Esna's fish

Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.

€ Budget

Esna lives off the river and its lock: cruise boats wait there, and the quayside eateries grill fish caught that morning. A simple road lunch, three steps from the temple of Khnum.

The extra bit

Eat before or after the temple visit, not during: the eateries close early in the afternoon.

Know before you go

Cash, and no menu: you choose the fish off the ice, as everywhere on the river.

Directions

Lock quay, Esna

Directions

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