• Two whole fish laid out on crushed ice at a stall.

    El Masrien

    Fish by weight in the Old Market, half the price of Naama Bay.

    Sharm el-SheikhOld Market, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Bamboo benches spread with striped mattresses and cushions, set right on the sand facing the sea.

    Dahab's seafront tables

    Eating with your feet in the sand, a metre from the reef, watching divers come back.

    SinaiAssalah, Dahab

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A mezze plate: hummus with olives, flatbread, falafel and salad.

    Estoril

    A Downtown tavern where journalists, artists and regulars have met since 1969.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A white boat moored on the Nile, its upper deck under an awning, against a palm-lined bank.

    Le Pacha 1901

    A moored boat turned into several restaurants and bars, at Zamalek.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Le Grillon

    A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Grilled squid and a prawn, with a roasted lemon wedge.

    Cap d'Or

    Our favourite

    An Art Nouveau tavern serving beer and prawns for a century.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Smooth hummus, drizzled with olive oil and scattered with seeds.

    Egyptian cooking, reworked

    Koshari plated, molokheya on a tasting menu: Cairo's new table.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, New Cairo

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • New Cairo's food halls

    Twenty counters under one roof: the format that replaced the single restaurant.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A whole grilled fish and octopus, lemon and salad

    Port Said's fish tables

    The Delta's best fish, picked off the ice and grilled to order.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A plate of small fried fish, lemon and white sauce

    The tables of Abu Qir

    Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Sliced, golden shawarma meat piled on a stainless steel plate.

    Bazooka

    Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.

    CairoCairo and Alexandria

    BudgetBudget
  • A large metal tray heaped with spiced yellow rice and pieces of meat, one with a lamb bone.

    Hadramout

    The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.

    CairoNasr City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of grilled kofta fingers on slate, with tahini, red sauce, grilled tomato and green chillies.

    El Dahan

    A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go