• A whole fish grilling over charcoal embers.

    The tables of Quseir

    Off the beaten track

    Fish from a real port, served on a seafront with no resort.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Fresh okra sliced into rounds, in close-up.

    Cairo's Sudanese tables

    Off the beaten track

    Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.

    CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A piece of lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots and onions in a white dish.

    Upper Egyptian cooking in Cairo

    Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.

    CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A glass of sugarcane juice in front of freshly cut lengths of cane.

    The tables of Qena

    Off the beaten track

    A road stop between Luxor and Dendera, where you eat for next to nothing.

    LuxorQena

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three whole fish clamped in a wire grill basket over the embers, with a plate of ash-baked potatoes beside them.

    Esna's fish

    Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.

    LuxorEsna

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A sliced-meat sandwich in flatbread, held in its paper wrapper.

    The tables of Beni Suef

    Off the beaten track

    A staging town on the road south, and its roadside grills.

    FayoumBeni Suef

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Meat turned with tongs, above the flames

    El Dahar's grills

    Hurghada's old quarter eats at its own tables, not the marina's.

    HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A row of chicken and pepper skewers

    Sidi Bishr's grills

    The district where Alexandria has dinner on weekdays, away from the tourist Corniche.

    AlexandriaSidi Bishr, east of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options