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Fish from a real port, served on a seafront with no resort.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir
Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.
CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City
Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.
CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab
Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.
CairoAll over Cairo
A road stop between Luxor and Dendera, where you eat for next to nothing.
LuxorQena
Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.
LuxorEsna
A staging town on the road south, and its roadside grills.
FayoumBeni Suef
Hurghada's old quarter eats at its own tables, not the marina's.
HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada
The district where Alexandria has dinner on weekdays, away from the tourist Corniche.
AlexandriaSidi Bishr, east of Alexandria
Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.