• Colossi of Memnon

    Two eighteen-metre statues at the roadside, all that stands of the west bank's largest temple.

    LuxorWest bank

    BudgetUNESCO
  • Luxor after dark

    The temple stands floodlit gold at the roadside, and people sit out on the Corniche until late.

    LuxorCorniche

    BudgetNile view
  • An alley lit by lanterns, tables set out for the evening

    The cafés of Luxor souk

    Ahwas between the stalls, where the traders themselves go for tea.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Luxor souk

    The souk's covered street: spices, galabiyas, statuettes and a great deal of bargaining.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetHandmade
  • A pointed brick archway and old wooden doors in a narrow street.

    Esna souk

    A restored souk street around the temple, between old shops and a caravanserai.

    LuxorEsna, south of Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Grilled chicken pieces on flatbread, with parsley and grilled tomatoes.

    Aisha

    Egyptian home cooking, served on a street terrace near the souk.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Green fields and palm trees at the foot of the desert cliffs of the west bank.

    The tables of the west bank

    Terraces in the middle of the fields, between the Colossi and the Valley of the Kings.

    LuxorWest bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A glass of sugarcane juice in front of freshly cut lengths of cane.

    The tables of Qena

    Off the beaten track

    A road stop between Luxor and Dendera, where you eat for next to nothing.

    LuxorQena

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three whole fish clamped in a wire grill basket over the embers, with a plate of ash-baked potatoes beside them.

    Esna's fish

    Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.

    LuxorEsna

    BudgetWhere locals go