• Crystal Mountain

    A calcite outcrop beside the Farafra road: a rock arch, and crystal splinters all over the ground.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra road

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Al-Qasr

    A medieval mud-brick town: covered lanes, dated door lintels, a minaret and a grain mill.

    The oases and the Western DesertDakhla

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The cafés of Bawiti

    The compulsory stop before the White Desert: tea, fuel and last supplies.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A steaming glass of hot tea standing on a wooden table.

    The cafés of Mut

    Evening in Dakhla: a few tables on the square, tea, and a silence the city never has.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Kharga market

    Dates, baskets and pottery from the oasis, in the Western Desert's largest town.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A whole roast chicken, golden and glistening, on a wooden board with a sprig of parsley.

    The tables of Bahariya

    Chicken, rice and stewed vegetables, served before or after the desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A vaulted hall, long tables and benches on the carpets

    The tables of Dakhla

    Off the beaten track

    Oasis bread, dates and the Western Desert's stews.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut and Al-Qasr, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go