• White Desert

    Unmissable

    Chalk outcrops standing in the sand, carved by the wind. Beyond the tarmac it is 4×4 country.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra, New Valley

    €€€ High endSunset
  • Bahariya Oasis

    An oasis that Cairo coaches reach in a day: palm groves, hot springs, black-capped hills to the south.

    The oases and the Western DesertBahariya, Western Desert

    €€ Mid-rangeSunset
  • Dakhla Oasis

    Palm groves under a pink escarpment, and a mud-brick quarter called al-Qasr.

    The oases and the Western DesertDakhla, New Valley

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Farafra Oasis

    A small town, a palm grove, hot springs, and the road north into the White Desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra, New Valley

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Crystal Mountain

    A calcite outcrop beside the Farafra road: a rock arch, and crystal splinters all over the ground.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra road

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Al-Qasr

    A medieval mud-brick town: covered lanes, dated door lintels, a minaret and a grain mill.

    The oases and the Western DesertDakhla

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Al-Bagawat Necropolis

    Off the beaten track

    A Christian cemetery of vaulted mud-brick chapels, their walls covered in Greek graffiti.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Kharga Oasis

    An oasis of offices and fields, strung with temples and forts along an old caravan road.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The cafés of Bawiti

    The compulsory stop before the White Desert: tea, fuel and last supplies.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A steaming glass of hot tea standing on a wooden table.

    The cafés of Mut

    Evening in Dakhla: a few tables on the square, tea, and a silence the city never has.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Kharga market

    Dates, baskets and pottery from the oasis, in the Western Desert's largest town.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Black Desert

    Hills capped with dark basalt, on the road to the White Desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBahariya

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • The tents lit from within, once the sun has gone.

    A night in the White Desert

    Unmissable

    Sleeping among the chalk mushrooms, under one of the world's darkest skies.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • A whole roast chicken, golden and glistening, on a wooden board with a sprig of parsley.

    The tables of Bahariya

    Chicken, rice and stewed vegetables, served before or after the desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A vaulted hall, long tables and benches on the carpets

    The tables of Dakhla

    Off the beaten track

    Oasis bread, dates and the Western Desert's stews.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut and Al-Qasr, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go