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A desert depression with salt lakes, a palm grove, and a mud-brick fortress in the middle.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa
A small turquoise cove at the foot of a limestone cliff, west of Marsa Matrouh.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matrouh
A stone pool fed by a spring, lit after dark, on the Aghurmi road out of Siwa.
A spit of palms in Siwa's salt lake, where people sit down for the sunset.
Morning tea under the palms, at the foot of the Shali fortress.
A mango juice facing the most turquoise lagoon on the north coast.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matruh
Siwa's canteen since the 1980s: tagines, dates and Siwan pizzas.
Siwan embroidery, Berber silver, palm baskets and oasis olive oil.
The coastal town's market: figs, dates, Bedouin wool and beach goods.
Dunes as far as the eye can see west of Siwa, up to the Libyan border.
A hot spring in the middle of the dunes, and a salt lake a few hundred metres away.
A seaside city risen from the sand in five years, its towers standing in the Mediterranean.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast
The 1942 battle told on the ground, among tanks, maps and cemeteries.
Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.
Seven thousand headstones aligned facing the desert, in total silence.
Fish in front of the clearest water on Egypt's Mediterranean.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSidi Abdel Rahman, north coast
The north coast's marina and its summer terraces.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarina, north coast
Western Mediterranean fish, sold by weight along the corniche.
Dates, olives, garden vegetables: oasis cooking, largely vegetarian.
A real pool facing the lagoon, with a separate basin for small children — but you get in by taking a room.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaCleopatra Beach, on the El Gharam lagoon
Three pools facing the Mediterranean — behind the gate of a closed compound.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarassi, Km 129 Matrouh Road, El Alamein
The only one on this coast to advertise indoor pools: you can still swim when the coast has shut.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaNew Alamein, Km 107 North Coastal Road