• Grilled fish

    Kadoura

    You pick your fish off the ice, they grill it, you eat facing the harbour.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi / Corniche

    4.4Ratingour own rating€€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa

    Our favourite

    A Roman necropolis on three levels, where Anubis wears a legionary's armour.

    AlexandriaKarmouz

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Roman Theatre

    Egypt's only surviving Roman theatre: thirteen tiers of marble in the middle of downtown.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Bibliotheca Alexandrina

    A 2002 library that has nothing of the ancient one but its name, and a reading room on eleven terraces.

    AlexandriaShatby

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Montazah Palace

    A royal park by the sea where you visit the gardens, not the palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah

    €€ Mid-rangeSunset
  • Alexandria Corniche

    Our favourite

    The whole city's evening walk: grilled corn, salted lupins, anglers on the parapet.

    AlexandriaEastern Harbour

    BudgetSea view
  • The Metropole hotel on Saad Zaghloul square — the Trianon occupies its ground floor

    Trianon

    An early twentieth-century patisserie and brasserie, painted ceilings intact, on Saad Zaghloul Square.

    AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul, Raml

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Antoniadis Gardens

    The garden of a nineteenth-century Greek villa: ruled walks, marble statues, old palms.

    AlexandriaSmouha

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Shallalat Gardens

    A sunken garden wrapped around what is left of Alexandria's medieval city wall.

    AlexandriaShallalat

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Alexandria Zoo

    An early twentieth-century pleasure garden in Nouzha: come for the palm walks.

    AlexandriaNouzha

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Délices

    A Greek patisserie of the 1920s: you pick from the chilled cabinet, prices on the labels.

    AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Qaitbay Citadel

    A Mamluk fortress of the 1470s at the harbour point, over the ruins of the Pharos.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Roasted coffee beans spilling out of a burlap sack.

    Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

    A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A shot of espresso runs from the machine into a small white cup at the counter.

    Brazilian Coffee Store

    A 1929 counter where coffee is drunk standing, in three minutes, as in Naples.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Athineos

    A Belle Époque room facing the sea, with a view of the bay and of a century of Alexandria.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Tables and chairs on a deck, right at the water

    The Corniche cafés

    Tea facing the Mediterranean, on chairs set between pavement and sea wall.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • An empty cafe room: a leather banquette, round tables and wooden chairs.

    Coffee Roastery

    A comfortable café overlooking Stanley bay, to work or to linger.

    AlexandriaStanley, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Mohamed Ahmed

    Alexandria's breakfast: foul, taameya and eggs, in a room that never empties.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetVegan options
  • A market stall piled with small fresh red mullet.

    Abou Ashraf

    Fish picked off the ice, grilled in the alley, eaten at plastic tables.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Cones of spices in their basins, and baskets of seeds

    The Attarine souk

    Our favourite

    Alexandria's antiques market: furniture, chandeliers and china from houses that closed.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Rolls of fabric in every colour, stacked one on top of another.

    Zanket el-Settat

    "The women's lane": a one-metre-wide alley, packed from morning to night.

    AlexandriaManshiya, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Crates of silver fish on the stall

    The Anfoushi fish market

    The fishing port's auction at dawn, before the city wakes.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • City Centre Alexandria

    Alexandria's big mall, with a hypermarket and international brands.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Grilled squid and a prawn, with a roasted lemon wedge.

    Cap d'Or

    Our favourite

    An Art Nouveau tavern serving beer and prawns for a century.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue