29 results
A sanctuary of Isis dismantled stone by stone, then rebuilt on another island.
AswanAgilkia Island
Indigo houses, a dune behind them, and a culture that is nothing like Egyptian.
AswanGharb Soheil, west bank
Nubia before Lake Nasser, and the villages that had to be left behind.
AswanAswan
An obelisk still lying in its quarry, cracked: the one place that shows how they were cut.
AswanQuarries
Two temples cut into the cliff by Ramesses II, then sliced apart and rebuilt higher up, 280 km south.
AswanAbu Simbel
One sail, no engine: the wind decides how your hour on the river goes.
AswanNile
The island in mid-river: two Nubian villages, ruins, and the nilometer that set the tax.
A whole island turned into a botanical garden, a few minutes by boat from the corniche.
AswanNile, Aswan
A granite jumble covered in inscriptions: floods, expeditions, a seven-year famine.
The work that stopped the Nile flood: the river on one side, a freshwater sea on the other.
AswanThe Dam
A fortified monastery abandoned in the thirteenth century, alone in the west-bank sand.
AswanWest bank
One long covered street a block back from the river: hibiscus, Nubian basketry, spices.
AswanSouk
Black water, moored feluccas, and headlights sliding along the parapet.
AswanCorniche
Egypt's most famous tea, facing the white sails and the rocks of the first cataract.
AswanCorniche, Aswan
Tea beside the calmest stretch of the Nile in Egypt, with feluccas gliding past.
A simple terrace on the corniche, to dine while the feluccas come home.
A Nubian dinner on the west bank, in a house painted blue and ochre.
AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan
Woven baskets, necklaces and spices sold in the painted houses of the Nubian village.
A temple on an island, lit, reached by boat in the dark.
AswanAgilkia island, Aswan
The colossi of Ramesses II lit beside Lake Nasser, once the coaches have left.
Drums, songs and dancing in the village houses, after dinner.
A double temple, shared between the crocodile Sobek and the falcon Haroeris.
AswanKom Ombo
The worksite that produced the obelisks and colossi of all Egypt.
Pyramids of spices, karkadeh, baskets and perfumes, over a kilometre of street.
AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan
