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Three halls on Gezira island, the Cairo Symphony Orchestra — and no main hall without a jacket.
CairoGezira, Zamalek
One hundred and eighty-seven metres midstream, and the city readable at a glance. Go up at dusk.
The walk Cairenes actually take after dark: Qasr el-Nil bridge on foot, its lions, a glass of tea.
CairoCorniche el-Nil
The fanous market, a few weeks a year: cut tin, coloured glass, and a street that stays up.
CairoSayyida Zeinab
A vast room with bare walls where tea and beer have been served at the same tables for decades.
CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown
A vast terrace at the tip of the island, where shisha is smoked with your feet above the Nile.
CairoNorthern tip of Zamalek
The Cairo pub where matches are watched, with a beer list that is wide for the country.
CairoMaadi and other districts
Egyptian cooking served in a dark oriental salon, cushions and lanterns included.
CairoZamalek
A cultural centre under a bridge, where young Cairo goes to gigs without alcohol.
A contemporary art centre in Old Cairo, with evening concerts and exhibitions.
CairoFustat
Zar and Nubian music nights, in a small Downtown room.
CairoDowntown
A 1900s lounge bar with leather armchairs, left exactly as it was.
A Downtown tavern where journalists, artists and regulars have met since 1969.
Downtown's live music club, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.
A basement bar in Zamalek, discreet and full of long-standing regulars.
Two hours of cruising with dinner, band and belly dance.
CairoZamalek and the Nile Corniche
A moored boat turned into several restaurants and bars, at Zamalek.
Cairo's arthouse cinema, in a historic Downtown auditorium.
The national folk troupes — tanoura, Upper Egyptian dances, Nubian songs.
CairoAgouza
A Downtown rooftop that serves at any hour, including when everything else is shut.
A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.
Screenings on rooftops and in gardens, from June to September.
CairoCairo and the coast
The city has started looking at its roofs — and putting bars on them.
CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City
An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.
CairoRhoda island
