• Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    € BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    € BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden croissants and a chocolate pastry crowded together on a tray.

    The Bakery Shop

    The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    € BudgetBest in the morning
  • Smoothed hummus, a thread of oil and whole chickpeas

    Cairo's Syrian tables

    Our favourite

    Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.

    Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Chickens lined up on the spits of a rotisserie

    Cairo's rotisseries

    Charcoal-grilled chicken, sold whole with bread, tahini and salads.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A thick green soup in a bowl, topped with a few golden croutons.

    Where to eat molokheya

    The national green soup, finely chopped and finished with fried garlic.

    CairoCairo

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pastry salon with a carved ceiling and chandeliers

    Cairo's oriental pastry shops

    Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A flatbread sandwich filled with falafel balls, tomato and raw vegetables.

    Cairo's street sandwiches

    Our favourite

    Taameya, foul, potato and aubergine in baladi bread, for almost nothing.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetVegan options
  • Fresh okra sliced into rounds, in close-up.

    Cairo's Sudanese tables

    Off the beaten track

    Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.

    CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A piece of lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots and onions in a white dish.

    Upper Egyptian cooking in Cairo

    Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.

    CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetVegan options
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    € BudgetVegan options
  • Palm trunks and their long shadows across a sunlit lawn.

    Merryland Park

    Heliopolis's old racecourse turned neighbourhood park: grass, water, and crowds until midnight.

    CairoHeliopolis

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A brightly coloured bouncy castle standing on the grass.

    Child Park

    The neighbourhood garden cut to children's size: grass, benches, and a play area charged by the hour.

    CairoNasr City

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The garden's terraces stepping down to the Nile, with their palms and hedges, seen from the bridge.

    Andalus Garden

    Two feddans of terraces at the water's edge: a garden to sit in, not to run in.

    CairoZamalek

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A wooden bench in the shade, at the edge of a lawn and a brick path.

    Al Horreya Garden

    Grass, shade and room to spread out in the middle of Zamalek, two minutes from the metro.

    CairoZamalek

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The centre's façade and its blue glass dome, the planetarium's, above a flower bed.

    Child Museum

    Four hands-on floors and a planetarium dome — but the door closes in the early afternoon.

    CairoHeliopolis

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A pair of white figure skates, blades resting on scored ice.

    ICE Planet — Family Land

    A real ice rink on the Maadi corniche, inside a leisure complex that has aged around it.

    CairoMaadi, Nile Corniche

    € BudgetFamily-friendly