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The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.
CairoMohandessin and branches
A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.
CairoSabtiya, Cairo
The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.
CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf
The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.
CairoAll across Cairo
Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.
Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram
Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.
CairoSayeda Zeinab
Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.
CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo
The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.
CairoAll over Cairo
Charcoal-grilled chicken, sold whole with bread, tahini and salads.
The national green soup, finely chopped and finished with fried garlic.
CairoCairo
Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.
Taameya, foul, potato and aubergine in baladi bread, for almost nothing.
Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.
CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City
Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.
CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab
Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.
Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.
Heliopolis's old racecourse turned neighbourhood park: grass, water, and crowds until midnight.
CairoHeliopolis
The neighbourhood garden cut to children's size: grass, benches, and a play area charged by the hour.
CairoNasr City
Two feddans of terraces at the water's edge: a garden to sit in, not to run in.
CairoZamalek
Grass, shade and room to spread out in the middle of Zamalek, two minutes from the metro.
Four hands-on floors and a planetarium dome — but the door closes in the early afternoon.
A real ice rink on the Maadi corniche, inside a leisure complex that has aged around it.
CairoMaadi, Nile Corniche