• Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden croissants and a chocolate pastry crowded together on a tray.

    The Bakery Shop

    The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Smoothed hummus, a thread of oil and whole chickpeas

    Cairo's Syrian tables

    Our favourite

    Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.

    Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Chickens lined up on the spits of a rotisserie

    Cairo's rotisseries

    Charcoal-grilled chicken, sold whole with bread, tahini and salads.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A thick green soup in a bowl, topped with a few golden croutons.

    Where to eat molokheya

    The national green soup, finely chopped and finished with fried garlic.

    CairoCairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pastry salon with a carved ceiling and chandeliers

    Cairo's oriental pastry shops

    Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A flatbread sandwich filled with falafel balls, tomato and raw vegetables.

    Cairo's street sandwiches

    Our favourite

    Taameya, foul, potato and aubergine in baladi bread, for almost nothing.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Fresh okra sliced into rounds, in close-up.

    Cairo's Sudanese tables

    Off the beaten track

    Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.

    CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A piece of lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots and onions in a white dish.

    Upper Egyptian cooking in Cairo

    Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.

    CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Palm trunks and their long shadows across a sunlit lawn.

    Merryland Park

    Heliopolis's old racecourse turned neighbourhood park: grass, water, and crowds until midnight.

    CairoHeliopolis

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A brightly coloured bouncy castle standing on the grass.

    Child Park

    The neighbourhood garden cut to children's size: grass, benches, and a play area charged by the hour.

    CairoNasr City

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The garden's terraces stepping down to the Nile, with their palms and hedges, seen from the bridge.

    Andalus Garden

    Two feddans of terraces at the water's edge: a garden to sit in, not to run in.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A wooden bench in the shade, at the edge of a lawn and a brick path.

    Al Horreya Garden

    Grass, shade and room to spread out in the middle of Zamalek, two minutes from the metro.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The centre's façade and its blue glass dome, the planetarium's, above a flower bed.

    Child Museum

    Four hands-on floors and a planetarium dome — but the door closes in the early afternoon.

    CairoHeliopolis

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A pair of white figure skates, blades resting on scored ice.

    ICE Planet — Family Land

    A real ice rink on the Maadi corniche, inside a leisure complex that has aged around it.

    CairoMaadi, Nile Corniche

    BudgetFamily-friendly