• Half a roast chicken served with spiced rice on a white plate.

    The tables of Zagazig

    Off the beaten track

    The farming Delta's cooking: poultry, rice, cheeses and vegetables of the day.

    The Delta and the north coastZagazig, Sharqia

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rugs on the ground, copper coffee pots and small cups

    The Bedouin tables of Saint Catherine

    Bread baked under the sand, wood-fire tea and mountain stew.

    SinaiSaint Catherine, South Sinai

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The tables of Nuweiba

    Grilled fish and Bedouin salads on mats, facing Arabia.

    SinaiNuweiba, South Sinai

    BudgetSea view
  • A whole fish grilling over charcoal embers.

    The tables of Quseir

    Off the beaten track

    Fish from a real port, served on a seafront with no resort.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Fresh okra sliced into rounds, in close-up.

    Cairo's Sudanese tables

    Off the beaten track

    Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.

    CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A piece of lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots and onions in a white dish.

    Upper Egyptian cooking in Cairo

    Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.

    CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A glass of sugarcane juice in front of freshly cut lengths of cane.

    The tables of Qena

    Off the beaten track

    A road stop between Luxor and Dendera, where you eat for next to nothing.

    LuxorQena

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three whole fish clamped in a wire grill basket over the embers, with a plate of ash-baked potatoes beside them.

    Esna's fish

    Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.

    LuxorEsna

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A sliced-meat sandwich in flatbread, held in its paper wrapper.

    The tables of Beni Suef

    Off the beaten track

    A staging town on the road south, and its roadside grills.

    FayoumBeni Suef

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Meat turned with tongs, above the flames

    El Dahar's grills

    Hurghada's old quarter eats at its own tables, not the marina's.

    HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A row of chicken and pepper skewers

    Sidi Bishr's grills

    The district where Alexandria has dinner on weekdays, away from the tourist Corniche.

    AlexandriaSidi Bishr, east of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Palm trunks and their long shadows across a sunlit lawn.

    Merryland Park

    Heliopolis's old racecourse turned neighbourhood park: grass, water, and crowds until midnight.

    CairoHeliopolis

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A brightly coloured bouncy castle standing on the grass.

    Child Park

    The neighbourhood garden cut to children's size: grass, benches, and a play area charged by the hour.

    CairoNasr City

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A jet of water in the middle of a park pond, ringed with greenery.

    Sheikh Zayed Central Park

    Sixty-five feddans around a lake in western Cairo — and it is not Zed Park.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSheikh Zayed

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The garden's terraces stepping down to the Nile, with their palms and hedges, seen from the bridge.

    Andalus Garden

    Two feddans of terraces at the water's edge: a garden to sit in, not to run in.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A wooden bench in the shade, at the edge of a lawn and a brick path.

    Al Horreya Garden

    Grass, shade and room to spread out in the middle of Zamalek, two minutes from the metro.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The centre's façade and its blue glass dome, the planetarium's, above a flower bed.

    Child Museum

    Four hands-on floors and a planetarium dome — but the door closes in the early afternoon.

    CairoHeliopolis

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A pair of white figure skates, blades resting on scored ice.

    ICE Planet — Family Land

    A real ice rink on the Maadi corniche, inside a leisure complex that has aged around it.

    CairoMaadi, Nile Corniche

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The Alexandria Engineers Syndicate club pool

    The pool people take for public and which is not: it is reserved for syndicate engineers and their families.

    AlexandriaAlexandria — the syndicate does not publish the club's address

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The tiled floor of a swimming pool, crossed by lane lines painted in dark blue.

    Paradise Pool — Misr Insurance Club

    125 pounds for the day: a sports-club pool, not a hotel annexe.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City, behind Mall of Arabia

    BudgetFamily-friendly