• Al-Azhar Park

    Our favourite

    Thirty hectares of green laid over five centuries of rubble, facing the Citadel.

    CairoDarb el-Ahmar

    4.6Ratingour own rating BudgetSunset
  • A burger and a pizza — the kind of menu, not the house

    French Touch

    The name says French; the menu says smash burgers and pizza.

    CairoMadinet El Waha, Nasr City

    4.6Rating(1,000)Talabat reviews (delivery) BudgetWhere locals go
  • Koshari — the dish, not the house

    Koshary Abou Tarek

    Unmissable

    The national dish, from a house that has done nothing else for decades.

    CairoDowntown

    4.3Rating(43,451)Google reviews BudgetVegan options
  • El-Fishawy Café

    Unmissable

    Cairo's oldest café, open without interruption since the late 18th century.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    4.3Ratingour own rating BudgetHistoric venue
  • A plate of koshari

    Koshary El Tahrir

    Our favourite

    Everyday koshari — the neighbourhood bowl rather than the guidebook one.

    CairoAbdeen

    4.1Rating(6,011)Google reviews BudgetVegan options
  • Ibn Tulun Mosque

    Unmissable

    Cairo's oldest mosque still in its original form, with a minaret whose staircase runs outside.

    CairoSayyida Zeinab

    BudgetUNESCO
  • The Hanging Church

    A nave built over the towers of a Roman gate: hence the name, and the drop beneath the floor.

    CairoOld Cairo, Fustat

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Ben Ezra Synagogue

    The synagogue of the Cairo Geniza, whose fragments are now in Cambridge.

    CairoOld Cairo, Fustat

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The El-Hussein mosque, on the square the cafés look onto

    The cafés of al-Hussein

    Not an address but a habit: chairs out on the square, a tea, a shisha, at any hour.

    CairoAl-Hussein, Gamaliya

    BudgetOpen late
  • Al-Azhar Mosque

    Founded in 970 by the Fatimids, a place of teaching for more than a thousand years.

    CairoAl-Hussein, Gamaliya

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Khan el-Khalili

    Our favourite

    A caravanserai from 1382 turned into a labyrinth of trades. On foot, and without a watch.

    CairoGamaliya

    BudgetHandmade
  • Wekalet el-Ghouri

    Off the beaten track

    An early sixteenth-century Mamluk wikala, now a courtyard of craftspeople and musicians.

    CairoAl-Azhar, Gamaliya

    BudgetUNESCO
  • Cairo's Nile after dark

    The walk Cairenes actually take after dark: Qasr el-Nil bridge on foot, its lions, a glass of tea.

    CairoCorniche el-Nil

    BudgetNile view
  • Aquarium Grotto Garden

    Off the beaten track

    Rockwork grottoes built under Khedive Ismail, an aquarium opened in 1902, in the shade, in mid-Zamalek.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Japanese Garden, Helwan

    Rows of seated Buddhas under parasols, in a Japanese-style garden south of Cairo.

    CairoHelwan

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Al-Muizz Street

    The spine of Fatimid Cairo, from Bab al-Futuh to Bab Zuweila, and best walked.

    CairoGamaliya

    BudgetOpen late
  • Katkhuda Sabil-Kuttab

    Our favourite

    A public fountain of 1744 at the fork of al-Muizz, the Quran school above it.

    CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya

    BudgetUNESCO
  • The Friday Market

    Cairo's flea market: whatever the city threw out, sold again on a Friday morning.

    CairoSayyida Aisha

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • The Nile river bus

    Public transport on the river: crossing Cairo by water, for the price of a bus fare.

    CairoCorniche el-Nil

    BudgetNile view
  • The Ramadan lanterns

    The fanous market, a few weeks a year: cut tin, coloured glass, and a street that stays up.

    CairoSayyida Zeinab

    BudgetHandmade
  • A pierced lantern, a teapot and a glass of mint tea on a brass tray, among wooden café chairs.

    Zahret el-Bustan

    Our favourite

    The ahwa of students, poets and insomniacs, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A wooden king and pawns on a chessboard, a game under way.

    El Horreya

    A vast room with bare walls where tea and beer have been served at the same tables for decades.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • An alley lined with low stools and small tables

    The ahwas of El Borsa

    Two pedestrian lanes entirely covered in chairs: Cairo's largest open-air café.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cappuccino in a thick cup on a wooden board, with biscuits, coffee beans and cinnamon.

    Simonds

    The counter where Zamalek has taken its cappuccino standing up since 1898.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetBest in the morning