• Cairo Opera House

    Three halls on Gezira island, the Cairo Symphony Orchestra — and no main hall without a jacket.

    CairoGezira, Zamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Cairo Tower

    One hundred and eighty-seven metres midstream, and the city readable at a glance. Go up at dusk.

    CairoGezira, Zamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • Yachts moored at the marina

    Hurghada Marina

    Our favourite

    The harbour promenade: yachts on one side, terraces on the other, and the whole town out after dark.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Two beef tacos topped with avocado, red onion and lime, on a white dish.

    La Cantina

    Steaks, tacos, live music and the fire show — the liveliest table on the quay.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • The ochre facades of Hurghada Marina and the sailboat masts, mirrored in the calm morning water.

    Cheguevara

    Flambé steaks and a view of the harbour masts — a safe bet on the quay.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A grilled beef steak, sliced, with herb butter.

    Luca's Pub & Grub

    A pub that serves proper cuts of meat, including a tomahawk for two.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A wooden deck built out over the water, tables set facing the sunset.

    Caribbean Bar — Bella Vista

    A bar with its feet in the water, built for the exact hour of sunset.

    HurghadaBella Vista, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • The columns of Luxor Temple, floodlit gold against the night sky.

    Al Sahaby Lane

    A rooftop terrace above the souk, with the illuminated Luxor temple as a backdrop.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeRooftop
  • The sun sets over the Nile, the town in silhouette on the far bank.

    Panorama

    A simple terrace on the corniche, to dine while the feluccas come home.

    AswanCorniche, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • An exhibition wall: twelve framed prints and a bench, in black and white.

    Darb 1718

    Off the beaten track

    A contemporary art centre in Old Cairo, with evening concerts and exhibitions.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • The Windsor Hotel bar

    A 1900s lounge bar with leather armchairs, left exactly as it was.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A mezze plate: hummus with olives, flatbread, falafel and salad.

    Estoril

    A Downtown tavern where journalists, artists and regulars have met since 1969.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A singer's silhouette at a microphone under purple stage light.

    After Eight

    Downtown's live music club, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A row of high stools along a white-tiled bar counter.

    Cairo Cellar

    A basement bar in Zamalek, discreet and full of long-standing regulars.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Le Grillon

    A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Alexandria Opera — Sayed Darwish Theatre

    A 1921 Italian-style auditorium, the city's finest stage.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Naama Bay at night

    Sharm's historic promenade, its terraces, its neon and its touts.

    Sharm el-SheikhNaama Bay, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • The Karnak sound and light show

    Walking the hypostyle hall at night, lit, while the temple tells its story.

    LuxorKarnak, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Philae sound and light show

    A temple on an island, lit, reached by boat in the dark.

    AswanAgilkia island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Two stone colossi carved into the cliff face, under a blue sky.

    The Abu Simbel sound and light show

    The colossi of Ramesses II lit beside Lake Nasser, once the coaches have left.

    AswanAbu Simbel

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A bazaar stall lit at night, hanging lanterns and rows of alabaster figurines spilling onto the pavement.

    Hurghada's Mamsha at night

    The pedestrian promenade where Hurghada gathers after sunset.

    HurghadaMamsha, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • Manasterly Palace

    An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.

    CairoRhoda island

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • Two whole grilled fish with lemon wedges on a metal plate.

    The Greek Club

    A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view