• A singer's silhouette at a microphone under purple stage light.

    After Eight

    Downtown's live music club, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A row of high stools along a white-tiled bar counter.

    Cairo Cellar

    A basement bar in Zamalek, discreet and full of long-standing regulars.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Le Grillon

    A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • The specialty coffee wave

    In five years, Cairo has gone from instant coffee to single-origin filter — and the roasters are Egyptian.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • New Cairo's food halls

    Twenty counters under one roof: the format that replaced the single restaurant.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Manasterly Palace

    An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.

    CairoRhoda island

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Vegetables sorted into wooden crates, under the awning

    The farmers' markets

    Weekend markets where farms from Fayoum and the Delta sell direct.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Sheikh Zayed

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A gilded funerary mask and a mummy's linen wrappings, against a black background.

    The Royal Mummies Hall

    Unmissable

    Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A large metal tray heaped with spiced yellow rice and pieces of meat, one with a lamb bone.

    Hadramout

    The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.

    CairoNasr City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Rows of grilled kofta fingers on slate, with tahini, red sauce, grilled tomato and green chillies.

    El Dahan

    A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A beef and potato stew served in its small casserole dish.

    Kazaz

    Grills and daily dishes in a Downtown room that never empties.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A milkshake in a tall glass, with whipped cream, chocolate sauce and a pink straw.

    Lucille's

    Cairo's American burger since the 1990s, in a Maadi diner.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A cheeseburger and fries on a wooden board, with a small dish of ketchup.

    Mince

    The food-hall generation's burger, sourced and cooked to order.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Two hands cut into a tomato-topped toast beside a glass of beer on a dark table.

    Amphitryon

    A Greek brasserie in Heliopolis, open since between the wars.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A large platter of yellow rice topped with kofta skewers, chicken and grilled meats, ringed with small bowls of sauces.

    The tables of Nasr City

    The district where you eat at any hour: grills, Yemeni, Syrian, fast food.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Two bowls of dates and prayer beads, set side by side

    Ramadan iftar tables

    Our favourite

    A month when the city eats at the same minute, and the streets become dining rooms.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Two milky coffees in glasses, on white trays at a café table.

    The tables of Maadi

    The leafy southern district, its terraces and its international dining.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A mezze table in small silver bowls

    Cairo's Lebanese tables

    Mezze, grills and fatteh: the foreign cuisine most firmly settled in Egypt.

    CairoZamalek, Mohandessin, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • Four coloured slides emptying into the pool under a blue sky.

    Aqua Park El Obour

    North-east Cairo's water park — but only in the hot season.

    CairoEl Obour City, km 31 of the Cairo–Ismailia road, Qalyubia governorate

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The large “family park” sign by the road, with a white dome behind the flowering hedge.

    Family Park

    Eighty feddans of lawns and rides at km 26 of the Suez road: the weekend outing of New Cairo families.

    CairoNew Cairo — Al Rehab

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A carousel horse painted turquoise and pink, under the canopy of a merry-go-round.

    Nasr City International Park

    The countries of the world in miniature, a small zoo and fairground rides: you pay to get in, then you pay by zone.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • BOUNCE Egypt

    Two floors of trampolines inside a mall: it bounces, and it echoes.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly