• Sautéed prawns arranged around a mound of rice on a plate.

    Fares Seafood

    The fish house Sharm locals name before the hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Pieces of grilled chicken laid on flatbread, with a fire-roasted green pepper and tomato.

    Al-Masry

    Aswan's grill house, on the souk street for decades.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A white-sailed felucca crossing the river at sunset.

    El Dokka

    Our favourite

    A restaurant on a Nile island, reachable only by boat.

    AswanEssa island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • A whole fish, scored and browned, resting on grey embers.

    The tables of Lake Qarun

    Lake fish grilled at the water's edge, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumNorth shore of Lake Qarun

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A dish of hummus with olive oil, ringed by tomatoes and limes, on a wooden table.

    The tables of Tunis village

    Farm cooking served in the guesthouses, above the lake.

    FayoumTunis village, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Whole fish grilled over charcoal, held in a grilling basket.

    Lake Timsah fish

    Bass, mullet and prawns from the lake, served beside the Suez Canal.

    The Delta and the north coastIsmailia

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Trawlers moored at dusk

    Suez's fish tables

    Off the beaten track

    Red Sea fish at its northern entrance, far from the resorts.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Tewfik, Suez

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A platter of fried seafood: whole prawns, squid and a lemon wedge.

    The tables of Ras el-Bar

    Fish and prawns at the point where the Nile meets the sea.

    The Delta and the north coastRas el-Bar, Damietta

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Two whole grilled fish on a pewter dish, with lemon wedges.

    The tables of Marsa Alam

    Few addresses, plenty of fish: the southern Red Sea's table.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Two hands cut into a tomato-topped toast beside a glass of beer on a dark table.

    Amphitryon

    A Greek brasserie in Heliopolis, open since between the wars.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A large platter of yellow rice topped with kofta skewers, chicken and grilled meats, ringed with small bowls of sauces.

    The tables of Nasr City

    The district where you eat at any hour: grills, Yemeni, Syrian, fast food.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Two bowls of dates and prayer beads, set side by side

    Ramadan iftar tables

    Our favourite

    A month when the city eats at the same minute, and the streets become dining rooms.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A margherita pizza on a wooden table, tomatoes and garlic beside it.

    Kiki's

    Pizzas and pasta in the heart of El Gouna's Downtown, at reasonable prices.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Rows of grilled minced-meat fingers on the grill, in the smoke.

    The tables of Ras Sudr

    Fish and grills on the Gulf of Suez coast, two hours from Cairo.

    SinaiRas Sudr, Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Two milky coffees in glasses, on white trays at a café table.

    The tables of Maadi

    The leafy southern district, its terraces and its international dining.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A mezze table in small silver bowls

    Cairo's Lebanese tables

    Mezze, grills and fatteh: the foreign cuisine most firmly settled in Egypt.

    CairoZamalek, Mohandessin, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • Sergeant-major fish above fire coral, in front of a shoal of small silver fish.

    Royal Seascope

    Hurghada's boat with portholes: see the coral without getting wet, or knowing how to swim.

    HurghadaHurghada Marina, town centre

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The promenade's wooden footbridge, its lamp posts, and the resort's arcades beyond.

    Old Town Sahl Hasheesh

    A piazza, paved lanes and a pier: the one place in Sahl Hasheesh where you walk.

    HurghadaSahl Hasheesh, some twenty kilometres south of Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Four coloured slides emptying into the pool under a blue sky.

    Aqua Park El Obour

    North-east Cairo's water park — but only in the hot season.

    CairoEl Obour City, km 31 of the Cairo–Ismailia road, Qalyubia governorate

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The large “family park” sign by the road, with a white dome behind the flowering hedge.

    Family Park

    Eighty feddans of lawns and rides at km 26 of the Suez road: the weekend outing of New Cairo families.

    CairoNew Cairo — Al Rehab

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Coloured bowling balls on the ball return, in front of the lanes and the pins.

    Magic Planet

    The indoor games hall at Mall of Egypt: arcade, rides and bowling, for when it is forty degrees outside.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A carousel horse painted turquoise and pink, under the canopy of a merry-go-round.

    Nasr City International Park

    The countries of the world in miniature, a small zoo and fairground rides: you pay to get in, then you pay by zone.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • BOUNCE Egypt

    Two floors of trampolines inside a mall: it bounces, and it echoes.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A pool filled with multicoloured plastic balls.

    Billy Beez

    A soft play the size of a warehouse — and one of the rare ones truly built for toddlers.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly