• The cafés of Korba

    Heliopolis's neo-Moorish arcades, their terraces and their patisseries.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A palm-lined corniche along the Suez Canal, a tug in the distance.

    The corniche cafés of Ismailia

    Tea beside the Suez Canal, watching 400-metre container ships go by.

    The Delta and the north coastIsmailia, Suez Canal

    BudgetBudget
  • The specialty coffee wave

    In five years, Cairo has gone from instant coffee to single-origin filter — and the roasters are Egyptian.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • A tray of syrup pastries behind the display glass

    Tanta's sweet shops

    Roasted chickpeas and mawlid halva, made here for generations.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Feluccas under sail on the Nile at sunset, in front of an inhabited bank.

    The Damietta corniche

    The Nile a few kilometres from its mouth, lined with cafés and boatyards.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetNile view
  • A loaded container ship seen head-on, cutting through open water.

    The Suez corniche

    Off the beaten track

    The canal's southern entrance, where ships queue for their turn.

    The Delta and the north coastSuez

    BudgetSea view
  • A hand plucks the strings of an oud, above the carved rosettes of its soundboard.

    The ahwas of Mohamed Ali street

    Off the beaten track

    The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.

    CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three glasses of fruit juice — strawberry, orange, lime — on a wooden table.

    Farghaly

    Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.

    AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Golden croissants and a chocolate pastry crowded together on a tray.

    The Bakery Shop

    The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • A hand holding an ice cream cone with a pink scoop and a cream scoop, out in the street.

    Alexandria's ice cream houses

    Buffalo-milk and mastic ice cream, a Greek tradition that stayed Alexandrian.

    AlexandriaCorniche and city centre

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A pastry salon with a carved ceiling and chandeliers

    Cairo's oriental pastry shops

    Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options