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Heliopolis's neo-Moorish arcades, their terraces and their patisseries.
CairoHeliopolis
Tea beside the Suez Canal, watching 400-metre container ships go by.
The Delta and the north coastIsmailia, Suez Canal
In five years, Cairo has gone from instant coffee to single-origin filter — and the roasters are Egyptian.
CairoZamalek, Maadi, Tagamoa
Roasted chickpeas and mawlid halva, made here for generations.
The Delta and the north coastTanta
The Nile a few kilometres from its mouth, lined with cafés and boatyards.
The Delta and the north coastDamietta
The canal's southern entrance, where ships queue for their turn.
The Delta and the north coastSuez
The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.
CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo
Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.
AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo
The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.
CairoAll across Cairo
Buffalo-milk and mastic ice cream, a Greek tradition that stayed Alexandrian.
AlexandriaCorniche and city centre
Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.
CairoAll over Cairo
Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.