• A beef and potato stew served in its small casserole dish.

    Kazaz

    Grills and daily dishes in a Downtown room that never empties.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A milkshake in a tall glass, with whipped cream, chocolate sauce and a pink straw.

    Lucille's

    Cairo's American burger since the 1990s, in a Maadi diner.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Golden croissants and a chocolate pastry crowded together on a tray.

    The Bakery Shop

    The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • A cheeseburger and fries on a wooden board, with a small dish of ketchup.

    Mince

    The food-hall generation's burger, sourced and cooked to order.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Smoothed hummus, a thread of oil and whole chickpeas

    Cairo's Syrian tables

    Our favourite

    Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.

    Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Chickens lined up on the spits of a rotisserie

    Cairo's rotisseries

    Charcoal-grilled chicken, sold whole with bread, tahini and salads.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A thick green soup in a bowl, topped with a few golden croutons.

    Where to eat molokheya

    The national green soup, finely chopped and finished with fried garlic.

    CairoCairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pastry salon with a carved ceiling and chandeliers

    Cairo's oriental pastry shops

    Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A flatbread sandwich filled with falafel balls, tomato and raw vegetables.

    Cairo's street sandwiches

    Our favourite

    Taameya, foul, potato and aubergine in baladi bread, for almost nothing.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Two hands cut into a tomato-topped toast beside a glass of beer on a dark table.

    Amphitryon

    A Greek brasserie in Heliopolis, open since between the wars.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Fresh okra sliced into rounds, in close-up.

    Cairo's Sudanese tables

    Off the beaten track

    Sudanese ful, agashe and kisra: a neighbouring cuisine, and yet unknown.

    CairoArba' wa Nus, Faisal, Nasr City

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A piece of lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots and onions in a white dish.

    Upper Egyptian cooking in Cairo

    Clay tagines, oven meat and sorghum bread, brought from Upper Egypt.

    CairoBoulaq, Imbaba, Sayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cane press, painted rollers and stalks at the ready

    The sugarcane juice stalls

    Cane pressed in front of you, for the price of a coin.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A large platter of yellow rice topped with kofta skewers, chicken and grilled meats, ringed with small bowls of sauces.

    The tables of Nasr City

    The district where you eat at any hour: grills, Yemeni, Syrian, fast food.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The tables of Tagamoa

    Cairo's contemporary dining, concentrated in the city's east.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • Two bowls of dates and prayer beads, set side by side

    Ramadan iftar tables

    Our favourite

    A month when the city eats at the same minute, and the streets become dining rooms.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A plate of hummus dusted with sumac, grilled chicken, rice and chopped salad.

    Sabaya

    Cairo's reference Lebanese table, in a hotel by the river.

    CairoGarden City, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • A plate of golden rice with pieces of meat and cloves of garlic.

    Osmanly

    Egypt's Ottoman cooking, served in a palace salon.

    CairoGarden City, Nile side

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • A mixed grill platter — chops, kofta and chicken — with flatbread, sauces and salad.

    Kebabgy

    Egyptian grills on a terrace set at the river's edge.

    CairoZamalek, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Whole sea bream packed side by side on a fishmonger's stall.

    Fish Market — Cairo

    A moored boat where you pick your fish off the ice before sitting down.

    CairoAgouza, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options