• The marina pontoons, boats moored in front of ochre houses.

    The tables of El Gouna marina

    Italian, Lebanese, Japanese, fish: the Red Sea's most international promenade.

    HurghadaAbu Tig Marina, El Gouna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Sautéed prawns arranged around a mound of rice on a plate.

    Fares Seafood

    The fish house Sharm locals name before the hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Long pasta with lobster in tomato sauce.

    El Fanar

    An Italian table at the foot of the lighthouse, on a reef beach.

    Sharm el-SheikhRas Umm Sid, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€€ High endSea view
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of the grill

    Hurghada's shawarma counters

    Hurghada's late-night meal, three streets from the marina restaurants.

    HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada

    BudgetBudget
  • Grilled chicken pieces on flatbread, with parsley and grilled tomatoes.

    Aisha

    Egyptian home cooking, served on a street terrace near the souk.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Green fields and palm trees at the foot of the desert cliffs of the west bank.

    The tables of the west bank

    Terraces in the middle of the fields, between the Colossi and the Valley of the Kings.

    LuxorWest bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Pieces of grilled chicken laid on flatbread, with a fire-roasted green pepper and tomato.

    Al-Masry

    Aswan's grill house, on the souk street for decades.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A white-sailed felucca crossing the river at sunset.

    El Dokka

    Our favourite

    A restaurant on a Nile island, reachable only by boat.

    AswanEssa island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • A table laid with stews, rice, hummus and flatbreads.

    Aswan's Nubian kitchens

    Mild tagines, spiced rice and flatbreads, served in the village houses.

    AswanWest bank and islands, Aswan

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A foil tray of pasta, rice and chickpeas, topped with tomato sauce ladled over it.

    The tables of Edfu

    Off the beaten track

    Grills and koshari in a town the cruises pass through without stopping.

    AswanEdfu

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A whole fish, scored and browned, resting on grey embers.

    The tables of Lake Qarun

    Lake fish grilled at the water's edge, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumNorth shore of Lake Qarun

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A dish of hummus with olive oil, ringed by tomatoes and limes, on a wooden table.

    The tables of Tunis village

    Farm cooking served in the guesthouses, above the lake.

    FayoumTunis village, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A whole roast chicken, golden and glistening, on a wooden board with a sprig of parsley.

    The tables of Bahariya

    Chicken, rice and stewed vegetables, served before or after the desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A vaulted hall, long tables and benches on the carpets

    The tables of Dakhla

    Off the beaten track

    Oasis bread, dates and the Western Desert's stews.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut and Al-Qasr, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Red kilim benches lined up under an awning

    The tables of Siwa

    Dates, olives, garden vegetables: oasis cooking, largely vegetarian.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Chickens lined up on the spits of a rotisserie

    Cairo's rotisseries

    Charcoal-grilled chicken, sold whole with bread, tahini and salads.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A thick green soup in a bowl, topped with a few golden croutons.

    Where to eat molokheya

    The national green soup, finely chopped and finished with fried garlic.

    CairoCairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pastry salon with a carved ceiling and chandeliers

    Cairo's oriental pastry shops

    Konafa, basbousa, om ali: Egyptian sweets sold by weight, all night.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A flatbread sandwich filled with falafel balls, tomato and raw vegetables.

    Cairo's street sandwiches

    Our favourite

    Taameya, foul, potato and aubergine in baladi bread, for almost nothing.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A platter of fried fish, rice and small salads

    The corniche tables of Mansoura

    Nile fish and grills facing the river, in a student town.

    The Delta and the north coastMansoura

    BudgetNile view
  • Whole fish grilled over charcoal, held in a grilling basket.

    Lake Timsah fish

    Bass, mullet and prawns from the lake, served beside the Suez Canal.

    The Delta and the north coastIsmailia

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go