• A felucca under sail on the Nile, before a village and a sand hill.

    Heissa island

    Off the beaten track

    A Nubian village on a lake island, almost without visitors.

    AswanSouth of the dam, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Pieces of grilled chicken laid on flatbread, with a fire-roasted green pepper and tomato.

    Al-Masry

    Aswan's grill house, on the souk street for decades.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A white-sailed felucca crossing the river at sunset.

    El Dokka

    Our favourite

    A restaurant on a Nile island, reachable only by boat.

    AswanEssa island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • A table laid with stews, rice, hummus and flatbreads.

    Aswan's Nubian kitchens

    Mild tagines, spiced rice and flatbreads, served in the village houses.

    AswanWest bank and islands, Aswan

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A foil tray of pasta, rice and chickpeas, topped with tomato sauce ladled over it.

    The tables of Edfu

    Off the beaten track

    Grills and koshari in a town the cruises pass through without stopping.

    AswanEdfu

    BudgetWhere locals go