• A mound of dried chillies in a woven tray, beside a basket of turmeric roots.

    Aswan's Nubian market

    Pyramids of spices, karkadeh, baskets and perfumes, over a kilometre of street.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    BudgetHandmade
  • Carved hieroglyphs, painted in ochre and blue, on the wall of an ancient Egyptian temple.

    Medinet Madi

    Off the beaten track

    An avenue of sphinxes and lions in the middle of the desert, almost never visited.

    FayoumSouthern Fayoum

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The bare stone temple standing alone at the desert's edge, its blocks still in place.

    Qasr el-Sagha

    Off the beaten track

    An unfinished temple of cyclopean blocks, alone in the desert above the lake.

    FayoumNorth of Lake Qarun

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Blue fishing boats moored on both sides of a canal lined with houses.

    El Max

    Off the beaten track

    A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.

    AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Montazah gardens

    A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • An orange-and-white striped beach parasol seen from below against a blue sky.

    Maamoura beach

    The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.

    AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Old Quseir

    Off the beaten track

    An Ottoman port left intact between Hurghada and Marsa Alam.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • St Paul's Monastery

    A fortified monastery in the desert, around the cave of the first Christian hermit.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaEastern Desert, near the Red Sea

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Whole fish laid out in rows on a fishmonger's stall, pink shrimp in the middle.

    Hurghada's fishing port

    Off the beaten track

    The morning auction, two streets from the hotels and a world from their mood.

    HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • The El Alamein Commonwealth cemetery

    Seven thousand headstones aligned facing the desert, in total silence.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Friday market of Sayeda Aisha

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.

    CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A hand plucks the strings of an oud, above the carved rosettes of its soundboard.

    The ahwas of Mohamed Ali street

    Off the beaten track

    The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.

    CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Sliced, golden shawarma meat piled on a stainless steel plate.

    Bazooka

    Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.

    CairoCairo and Alexandria

    BudgetBudget
  • Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three glasses of fruit juice — strawberry, orange, lime — on a wooden table.

    Farghaly

    Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.

    AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo

    BudgetBudget