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CairoHurghadaSharm el-SheikhGizaLuxorAswanAlexandriaSheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSinaiMarsa Alam & the Red SeaFayoumThe oases and the Western DesertMarsa Matrouh and SiwaThe Delta and the north coast
Monuments & sitesOutings & activitiesFamily outingsRestaurantsNature & downtimeCafés & tea housesShoppingWhat's newNightlife
€€€€€€
4.5+4+
  • Vegetables sorted into wooden crates, under the awning

    The farmers' markets

    Weekend markets where farms from Fayoum and the Delta sell direct.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Sheikh Zayed

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Soft coral and its shoals of anthias — what you come here for.

    The southern dive camps

    Wooden huts by the reef, hours from the nearest hotel.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam and Hamata

    €€ Mid-rangeDiving / snorkelling

  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry

  • The temple of Kom Ombo

    A double temple, shared between the crocodile Sobek and the falcon Haroeris.

    AswanKom Ombo

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A felucca under sail on the Nile, before a village and a sand hill.

    Heissa island

    Off the beaten track

    A Nubian village on a lake island, almost without visitors.

    AswanSouth of the dam, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A plate of small fried fish, lemon and white sauce

    The tables of Abu Qir

    Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go

  • Safaga

    A windsurfing port and a black-sand beach reputed to be therapeutic.

    HurghadaSafaga

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A road crosses the desert plateau, a few vehicles in front of the three pyramids.

    The new access to the Giza plateau

    A visitor centre, electric shuttles and the end of the horse touts.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A gilded funerary mask and a mummy's linen wrappings, against a black background.

    The Royal Mummies Hall

    Unmissable

    Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue

  • Mall of Arabia

    One of Egypt's largest malls, west of Cairo.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly

  • The Wadi el-Hitan museum

    An eighteen-metre skeleton of a legged whale, in a museum buried in the desert.

    FayoumWadi el-Hitan, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A large metal tray heaped with spiced yellow rice and pieces of meat, one with a lamb bone.

    Hadramout

    The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.

    CairoNasr City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Rows of grilled kofta fingers on slate, with tahini, red sauce, grilled tomato and green chillies.

    El Dahan

    A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A beef and potato stew served in its small casserole dish.

    Kazaz

    Grills and daily dishes in a Downtown room that never empties.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A milkshake in a tall glass, with whipped cream, chocolate sauce and a pink straw.

    Lucille's

    Cairo's American burger since the 1990s, in a Maadi diner.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A cheeseburger and fries on a wooden board, with a small dish of ketchup.

    Mince

    The food-hall generation's burger, sourced and cooked to order.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Two whole grilled fish with lemon wedges on a metal plate.

    The Greek Club

    A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza on a wooden board, one slice pulled away.

    Chez Gaby

    An Alexandrian trattoria from the 1980s, checked tablecloths included.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A large mixed grill platter — skewers, chops and chicken — with bread, salad and sauces.

    Balbaa Village

    Alexandrian grills in a big family room, open late.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Grilled chicken pieces lined up on flatbread with charred pepper, tomato and onion.

    Hosny

    Neighbourhood kofta and kebab, served on a production line for decades.

    AlexandriaAlexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A mound of tabbouleh — parsley, tomato, onion and bulgur — on a white plate.

    Hassan Bleik

    Off the beaten track

    A Lebanese house in the centre, open at lunchtime only, as fifty years ago.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Straw parasols and white loungers on a sandy beach facing the sea.

    Sea Gull

    Fish and grills on an Agami beach, far from the centre's crowds.

    AlexandriaAgami, west of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Whole fish laid out on ice

    Marsa Matruh's fish houses

    Western Mediterranean fish, sold by weight along the corniche.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matruh

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view