• A lodge and its palm grove, ringed by the dune.

    Siwa's lodges

    Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • Soft coral and its shoals of anthias — what you come here for.

    The southern dive camps

    Wooden huts by the reef, hours from the nearest hotel.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam and Hamata

    €€ Mid-rangeDiving / snorkelling
  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A large golden curtain lit from within, above the rows of empty red seats of a darkened hall.

    The El Gouna Film Festival

    A week of Arab and international cinema, on the Red Sea.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€€ High endPaid entry
  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A road crosses the desert plateau, a few vehicles in front of the three pyramids.

    The new access to the Giza plateau

    A visitor centre, electric shuttles and the end of the horse touts.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A gilded funerary mask and a mummy's linen wrappings, against a black background.

    The Royal Mummies Hall

    Unmissable

    Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • A desert road at the foot of a cliff, a lone car in the distance.

    El Galala

    A new city on a plateau at seven hundred metres, above the Gulf of Suez.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • The Wadi el-Hitan museum

    An eighteen-metre skeleton of a legged whale, in a museum buried in the desert.

    FayoumWadi el-Hitan, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue