• The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • The Friday market of Sayeda Aisha

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.

    CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A hand plucks the strings of an oud, above the carved rosettes of its soundboard.

    The ahwas of Mohamed Ali street

    Off the beaten track

    The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.

    CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Sliced, golden shawarma meat piled on a stainless steel plate.

    Bazooka

    Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.

    CairoCairo and Alexandria

    BudgetBudget
  • A large metal tray heaped with spiced yellow rice and pieces of meat, one with a lamb bone.

    Hadramout

    The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.

    CairoNasr City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Koshary El Omda

    The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • Koshary Sayed Hanafy

    A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.

    CairoSabtiya, Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • A grilled meat sandwich in flatbread with tomato, onion and parsley, served in its paper wrapper.

    Abou Haidar

    The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.

    CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of grilled kofta fingers on slate, with tahini, red sauce, grilled tomato and green chillies.

    El Dahan

    A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A beef and potato stew served in its small casserole dish.

    Kazaz

    Grills and daily dishes in a Downtown room that never empties.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A milkshake in a tall glass, with whipped cream, chocolate sauce and a pink straw.

    Lucille's

    Cairo's American burger since the 1990s, in a Maadi diner.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Golden croissants and a chocolate pastry crowded together on a tray.

    The Bakery Shop

    The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • A cheeseburger and fries on a wooden board, with a small dish of ketchup.

    Mince

    The food-hall generation's burger, sourced and cooked to order.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Smoothed hummus, a thread of oil and whole chickpeas

    Cairo's Syrian tables

    Our favourite

    Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.

    Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go