• Grilled fish

    Kadoura

    You pick your fish off the ice, they grill it, you eat facing the harbour.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi / Corniche

    4.4Ratingour own rating€€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa

    Our favourite

    A Roman necropolis on three levels, where Anubis wears a legionary's armour.

    AlexandriaKarmouz

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Roman Theatre

    Egypt's only surviving Roman theatre: thirteen tiers of marble in the middle of downtown.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Bibliotheca Alexandrina

    A 2002 library that has nothing of the ancient one but its name, and a reading room on eleven terraces.

    AlexandriaShatby

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Montazah Palace

    A royal park by the sea where you visit the gardens, not the palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah

    €€ Mid-rangeSunset
  • The Metropole hotel on Saad Zaghloul square — the Trianon occupies its ground floor

    Trianon

    An early twentieth-century patisserie and brasserie, painted ceilings intact, on Saad Zaghloul Square.

    AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul, Raml

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Délices

    A Greek patisserie of the 1920s: you pick from the chilled cabinet, prices on the labels.

    AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Qaitbay Citadel

    A Mamluk fortress of the 1470s at the harbour point, over the ruins of the Pharos.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Athineos

    A Belle Époque room facing the sea, with a view of the bay and of a century of Alexandria.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • An empty cafe room: a leather banquette, round tables and wooden chairs.

    Coffee Roastery

    A comfortable café overlooking Stanley bay, to work or to linger.

    AlexandriaStanley, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A market stall piled with small fresh red mullet.

    Abou Ashraf

    Fish picked off the ice, grilled in the alley, eaten at plastic tables.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Cones of spices in their basins, and baskets of seeds

    The Attarine souk

    Our favourite

    Alexandria's antiques market: furniture, chandeliers and china from houses that closed.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • City Centre Alexandria

    Alexandria's big mall, with a hypermarket and international brands.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Alexandria Opera — Sayed Darwish Theatre

    A 1921 Italian-style auditorium, the city's finest stage.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A plate of small fried fish, lemon and white sauce

    The tables of Abu Qir

    Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Two whole grilled fish with lemon wedges on a metal plate.

    The Greek Club

    A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza on a wooden board, one slice pulled away.

    Chez Gaby

    An Alexandrian trattoria from the 1980s, checked tablecloths included.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A large mixed grill platter — skewers, chops and chicken — with bread, salad and sauces.

    Balbaa Village

    Alexandrian grills in a big family room, open late.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Grilled chicken pieces lined up on flatbread with charred pepper, tomato and onion.

    Hosny

    Neighbourhood kofta and kebab, served on a production line for decades.

    AlexandriaAlexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A mound of tabbouleh — parsley, tomato, onion and bulgur — on a white plate.

    Hassan Bleik

    Off the beaten track

    A Lebanese house in the centre, open at lunchtime only, as fifty years ago.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Straw parasols and white loungers on a sandy beach facing the sea.

    Sea Gull

    Fish and grills on an Agami beach, far from the centre's crowds.

    AlexandriaAgami, west of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A blue pool in the foreground, a row of straw parasols, palm trees and the sea behind.

    Aifu Resort El Montazah — the day-use pool

    A day in the pool on the Montazah Corniche, no room booked, for the price of a lunch.

    AlexandriaMontazah, on the Corniche, opposite the park gate

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly