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Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.
CairoCairo and Alexandria
The Yemeni mandi that conquered Cairo: lamb, smoked rice, sharing platters.
CairoNasr City and branches
The other big koshari house, more modern and faster than Abou Tarek.
CairoMohandessin and branches
A neighbourhood koshari Cairenes name before the tourist addresses.
CairoSabtiya, Cairo
The liver-and-sausage sandwich eaten standing, at midnight.
CairoZamalek and Ard el-Golf
A century-old kebab house, steps from the al-Hussein mosque.
CairoSayeda Zeinab and Hussein
Grills and daily dishes in a Downtown room that never empties.
CairoDowntown
A table with a direct view of the pyramids, tens of metres from the plateau.
GizaGiza plateau
The only restaurant inside the site, with all nine pyramids in a row.
GizaInside the Giza plateau
Cairo's American burger since the 1990s, in a Maadi diner.
CairoMaadi
Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.
AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo
The chain bakery that put fiteer and croissants on the same counter.
CairoAll across Cairo
The food-hall generation's burger, sourced and cooked to order.
CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo
Shawarma, fatteh and Damascene sweets: the cooking Syria brought to Egypt.
Cairo6th of October, Nasr City, Hadayek el-Ahram
Alexandria's fish table, run by a former singer who became a neighbourhood legend.
AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria
A Greek taverna from 1929 at the water's edge, on the Abu Qir point.
AlexandriaAbu Qir, Alexandria
A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.
An Alexandrian trattoria from the 1980s, checked tablecloths included.
AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria
Alexandrian grills in a big family room, open late.
AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria
Neighbourhood kofta and kebab, served on a production line for decades.
AlexandriaAlexandria
A Lebanese house in the centre, open at lunchtime only, as fifty years ago.
Fish by weight with a panoramic view over the eastern bay.
AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria
Grills and seafood facing the sea, steps from the Bibliotheca.
AlexandriaCorniche, near the Bibliotheca
Fish and grills on an Agami beach, far from the centre's crowds.
AlexandriaAgami, west of Alexandria