• A hand holding an ice cream cone with a pink scoop and a cream scoop, out in the street.

    Alexandria's ice cream houses

    Buffalo-milk and mastic ice cream, a Greek tradition that stayed Alexandrian.

    AlexandriaCorniche and city centre

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A platter of butterflied grilled fish with prawns, calamari rings, rice and lemon slices.

    The tables of Sidi Abdel Rahman

    Fish in front of the clearest water on Egypt's Mediterranean.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSidi Abdel Rahman, north coast

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Sailboat masts silhouetted against an orange sky as the sun sets over a marina.

    The tables of Marina

    The north coast's marina and its summer terraces.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarina, north coast

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Whole fish laid out on ice

    Marsa Matruh's fish houses

    Western Mediterranean fish, sold by weight along the corniche.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matruh

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Dough worked by hand, rolling pin and flour

    Alexandria's baladi fiteer

    The Egyptian layered pastry, sweet or savoury, stretched by hand in front of you.

    AlexandriaWorking-class districts, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A flatbread stuffed with minced meat, oven-browned and cut into wedges on a plate.

    Alexandria's hawawshi

    Baladi bread stuffed with spiced minced meat, oven-baked until crisp.

    AlexandriaBahary and working-class districts

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The marina pontoons, boats moored in front of ochre houses.

    The tables of El Gouna marina

    Italian, Lebanese, Japanese, fish: the Red Sea's most international promenade.

    HurghadaAbu Tig Marina, El Gouna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Sautéed prawns arranged around a mound of rice on a plate.

    Fares Seafood

    The fish house Sharm locals name before the hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Long pasta with lobster in tomato sauce.

    El Fanar

    An Italian table at the foot of the lighthouse, on a reef beach.

    Sharm el-SheikhRas Umm Sid, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€€ High endSea view
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of the grill

    Hurghada's shawarma counters

    Hurghada's late-night meal, three streets from the marina restaurants.

    HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada

    BudgetBudget
  • Grilled chicken pieces on flatbread, with parsley and grilled tomatoes.

    Aisha

    Egyptian home cooking, served on a street terrace near the souk.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Green fields and palm trees at the foot of the desert cliffs of the west bank.

    The tables of the west bank

    Terraces in the middle of the fields, between the Colossi and the Valley of the Kings.

    LuxorWest bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Pieces of grilled chicken laid on flatbread, with a fire-roasted green pepper and tomato.

    Al-Masry

    Aswan's grill house, on the souk street for decades.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A white-sailed felucca crossing the river at sunset.

    El Dokka

    Our favourite

    A restaurant on a Nile island, reachable only by boat.

    AswanEssa island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • A table laid with stews, rice, hummus and flatbreads.

    Aswan's Nubian kitchens

    Mild tagines, spiced rice and flatbreads, served in the village houses.

    AswanWest bank and islands, Aswan

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A foil tray of pasta, rice and chickpeas, topped with tomato sauce ladled over it.

    The tables of Edfu

    Off the beaten track

    Grills and koshari in a town the cruises pass through without stopping.

    AswanEdfu

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A whole fish, scored and browned, resting on grey embers.

    The tables of Lake Qarun

    Lake fish grilled at the water's edge, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumNorth shore of Lake Qarun

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A dish of hummus with olive oil, ringed by tomatoes and limes, on a wooden table.

    The tables of Tunis village

    Farm cooking served in the guesthouses, above the lake.

    FayoumTunis village, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A whole roast chicken, golden and glistening, on a wooden board with a sprig of parsley.

    The tables of Bahariya

    Chicken, rice and stewed vegetables, served before or after the desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A vaulted hall, long tables and benches on the carpets

    The tables of Dakhla

    Off the beaten track

    Oasis bread, dates and the Western Desert's stews.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut and Al-Qasr, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Red kilim benches lined up under an awning

    The tables of Siwa

    Dates, olives, garden vegetables: oasis cooking, largely vegetarian.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A platter of liver sandwiches in flatbread, with green chillies and lemon halves.

    El Refai

    Sayeda Zeinab's liver and sausage, served from the pan until late.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Sesame-crusted loaves baking on the stone floor of a masonry oven.

    Cairo's hawawshi

    Spiced minced meat sealed in bread and put to the wood oven.

    CairoWorking-class districts, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A ball of dough in floured hands

    Cairo's fiteer bakers

    The hand-stretched layered pastry, sweet or savoury, baked in four minutes.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go