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A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.
AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria
The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.
AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria
An Ottoman port left intact between Hurghada and Marsa Alam.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir
A British freighter sunk in 1941, its motorcycles and lorries still in the hold.
HurghadaStrait of Gubal, Red Sea
A fortified monastery in the desert, around the cave of the first Christian hermit.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaEastern Desert, near the Red Sea
The morning auction, two streets from the hotels and a world from their mood.
HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada
A windsurfing port and a black-sand beach reputed to be therapeutic.
HurghadaSafaga
A visitor centre, electric shuttles and the end of the horse touts.
GizaGiza plateau
Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.
CairoFustat
Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.
CairoNile west bank, Cairo
A new city on a plateau at seven hundred metres, above the Gulf of Suez.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna
One of Egypt's largest malls, west of Cairo.
Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October
Seven thousand headstones aligned facing the desert, in total silence.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast
An eighteen-metre skeleton of a legged whale, in a museum buried in the desert.
FayoumWadi el-Hitan, Fayoum
Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.
CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo
The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.
CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo
A flat lagoon and thermal wind every afternoon, April to October.
HurghadaEl Gouna
Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.
CairoAll across Cairo
Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.
CairoGarden City and branches
Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.
Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.
CairoMohandessin and branches
The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.
Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.
The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.