• The Montazah gardens

    A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • An orange-and-white striped beach parasol seen from below against a blue sky.

    Maamoura beach

    The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.

    AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Old Quseir

    Off the beaten track

    An Ottoman port left intact between Hurghada and Marsa Alam.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Thistlegorm wreck

    Unmissable

    A British freighter sunk in 1941, its motorcycles and lorries still in the hold.

    HurghadaStrait of Gubal, Red Sea

    €€€ High endDiving / snorkelling
  • St Paul's Monastery

    A fortified monastery in the desert, around the cave of the first Christian hermit.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaEastern Desert, near the Red Sea

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Whole fish laid out in rows on a fishmonger's stall, pink shrimp in the middle.

    Hurghada's fishing port

    Off the beaten track

    The morning auction, two streets from the hotels and a world from their mood.

    HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Safaga

    A windsurfing port and a black-sand beach reputed to be therapeutic.

    HurghadaSafaga

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A road crosses the desert plateau, a few vehicles in front of the three pyramids.

    The new access to the Giza plateau

    A visitor centre, electric shuttles and the end of the horse touts.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A gilded funerary mask and a mummy's linen wrappings, against a black background.

    The Royal Mummies Hall

    Unmissable

    Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • A desert road at the foot of a cliff, a lone car in the distance.

    El Galala

    A new city on a plateau at seven hundred metres, above the Gulf of Suez.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Mall of Arabia

    One of Egypt's largest malls, west of Cairo.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The El Alamein Commonwealth cemetery

    Seven thousand headstones aligned facing the desert, in total silence.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Wadi el-Hitan museum

    An eighteen-metre skeleton of a legged whale, in a museum buried in the desert.

    FayoumWadi el-Hitan, Fayoum

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Friday market of Sayeda Aisha

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.

    CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A hand plucks the strings of an oud, above the carved rosettes of its soundboard.

    The ahwas of Mohamed Ali street

    Off the beaten track

    The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.

    CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Flat water and steady wind: the two reasons to come here.

    Kitesurfing in El Gouna

    A flat lagoon and thermal wind every afternoon, April to October.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden meat skewers on the grate, over a charcoal fire.

    Abou Shakra

    Cairo kebab since 1947, served from the same short menu as on day one.

    CairoGarden City and branches

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget