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CairoHurghadaSharm el-SheikhGizaLuxorAswanAlexandriaSheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSinaiMarsa Alam & the Red SeaFayoumThe oases and the Western DesertMarsa Matrouh and SiwaThe Delta and the north coast
Monuments & sitesOutings & activitiesFamily outingsRestaurantsNature & downtimeCafés & tea housesShoppingWhat's newNightlife
€€€€€€
4.5+4+
  • A loaded container ship seen head-on, cutting through open water.

    The Suez corniche

    Off the beaten track

    The canal's southern entrance, where ships queue for their turn.

    The Delta and the north coastSuez

    € BudgetSea view

  • The Delta's bathhouses

    Off the beaten track

    Neighbourhood hammams still working, far from hotel spas.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta and Mansoura

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Identical rental bicycles, lined up side by side.

    Cairo Bike

    Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    € BudgetBudget
  • A passenger boat moored on the Nile, in front of a palm-lined bank.

    The Nile river bus

    Our favourite

    Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.

    CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq

    € BudgetNile view
  • Three visitors sitting with their backs to us on a wooden bench, facing a large yellow wall in an exhibition room.

    Cairo's art galleries

    A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City

    € BudgetBudget
  • A hotel room, bed made and bedside lamp lit.

    Downtown's boutique hotels

    Belle-époque buildings restored as small hotels — and their roofs open to everyone.

    CairoDowntown

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • Vegetables sorted into wooden crates, under the awning

    The farmers' markets

    Weekend markets where farms from Fayoum and the Delta sell direct.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Sheikh Zayed

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A mud-brick lodge, domes and palms, at the desert's edge.

    Fayoum's eco-lodges

    Mud-brick guesthouses above the lake, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumTunis and Lake Qarun

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • A lodge and its palm grove, ringed by the dune.

    Siwa's lodges

    Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • Soft coral and its shoals of anthias — what you come here for.

    The southern dive camps

    Wooden huts by the reef, hours from the nearest hotel.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam and Hamata

    €€ Mid-rangeDiving / snorkelling

  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • A large golden curtain lit from within, above the rows of empty red seats of a darkened hall.

    The El Gouna Film Festival

    A week of Arab and international cinema, on the Red Sea.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€€ High endPaid entry

  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • The flight goes up at first light, before the wind picks up.

    Flying over Lake Qarun

    Desert, lake and fields seen from above, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumLake Qarun, Fayoum

    €€€ High endBest in the morning

  • The temple of Kom Ombo

    A double temple, shared between the crocodile Sobek and the falcon Haroeris.

    AswanKom Ombo

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A split granite block standing in the middle of a stone quarry.

    Aswan's granite quarries

    The worksite that produced the obelisks and colossi of all Egypt.

    AswanAswan

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • A mound of dried chillies in a woven tray, beside a basket of turmeric roots.

    Aswan's Nubian market

    Pyramids of spices, karkadeh, baskets and perfumes, over a kilometre of street.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    € BudgetHandmade
  • A felucca under sail on the Nile, before a village and a sand hill.

    Heissa island

    Off the beaten track

    A Nubian village on a lake island, almost without visitors.

    AswanSouth of the dam, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Carved hieroglyphs, painted in ochre and blue, on the wall of an ancient Egyptian temple.

    Medinet Madi

    Off the beaten track

    An avenue of sphinxes and lions in the middle of the desert, almost never visited.

    FayoumSouthern Fayoum

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • The bare stone temple standing alone at the desert's edge, its blocks still in place.

    Qasr el-Sagha

    Off the beaten track

    An unfinished temple of cyclopean blocks, alone in the desert above the lake.

    FayoumNorth of Lake Qarun

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • The tents lit from within, once the sun has gone.

    A night in the White Desert

    Unmissable

    Sleeping among the chalk mushrooms, under one of the world's darkest skies.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • Blue fishing boats moored on both sides of a canal lined with houses.

    El Max

    Off the beaten track

    A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.

    AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A plate of small fried fish, lemon and white sauce

    The tables of Abu Qir

    Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go