• The Mahmoud Khalil Museum

    Off the beaten track

    Monet, Gauguin, Van Gogh and Rodin, in a Cairo villa almost nobody visits.

    GizaDokki

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mahmoud Mokhtar Museum

    The sculptor of "Egypt's Awakening", in a pavilion designed for his work.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The round keys of an old typewriter, lit in close-up.

    Taha Hussein's house

    Off the beaten track

    The villa of the blind writer who made schooling free in Egypt.

    GizaHaram, Giza

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A whole tree trunk turned to stone, lying on desert gravel.

    The Petrified Forest of Maadi

    Off the beaten track

    Tree trunks turned to stone thirty million years ago, on Cairo's doorstep.

    CairoSouth-east of Maadi

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Manasterly Palace

    An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.

    CairoRhoda island

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Bibliotheca's museums

    Three museums and a planetarium tucked beneath the great reading room.

    AlexandriaChatby, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Pearl necklaces, gold brooches and chased silver boxes heaped on a black background.

    The Royal Jewellery Museum

    The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.

    AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Cavafy Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mustafa Kamel tombs

    Off the beaten track

    Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.

    AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Kom el-Dikka

    Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • An ancient mosaic floor with geometric patterns, worn by time.

    The Villa of the Birds

    Off the beaten track

    A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Stacks of second-hand books and textbooks piled to the top, packed tight against one another.

    The Azbakeya book market

    Our favourite

    Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.

    CairoAzbakeya, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A chequerboard brick façade in black and white, pierced by wooden mashrabiya screens.

    The Ottoman houses of Rosetta

    Off the beaten track

    Some twenty houses in red and black brick, unique in Egypt.

    The Delta and the north coastRosetta (Rashid)

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A painted wooden sarcophagus, covered with hieroglyphs and two wedjat eyes, on its plinth in a museum gallery.

    Port Said National Museum

    From prehistory to the canal, Egypt told facing the Mediterranean.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Port Fouad

    Off the beaten track

    A town in Asia ten minutes away by ferry, with wooden villas and gardens.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Fouad, Port Said

    BudgetSea view
  • A wooden jetty running from the sand out into the sea.

    Ras el-Bar

    The spit where the Nile meets the Mediterranean, and the two waters visibly touch.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetSea view
  • Ibn Luqman's house

    Off the beaten track

    The house where Saint Louis was imprisoned after the Seventh Crusade's defeat.

    The Delta and the north coastMansoura

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A mosque strung with lights at night, a dense crowd filling the square in front of it.

    The mawlid of Sayyid al-Badawi

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest Sufi gathering: a week of sleepless nights in Tanta.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A tray of syrup pastries behind the display glass

    Tanta's sweet shops

    Roasted chickpeas and mawlid halva, made here for generations.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Tanis

    Off the beaten track

    A field of toppled obelisks in the Delta, and intact royal tombs.

    The Delta and the north coastSan el-Hagar, Sharqia

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Bubastis

    Off the beaten track

    The city of the cat goddess Bastet, and its cemetery of mummified cats.

    The Delta and the north coastZagazig, Sharqia

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Feluccas under sail on the Nile at sunset, in front of an inhabited bank.

    The Damietta corniche

    The Nile a few kilometres from its mouth, lined with cafés and boatyards.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetNile view
  • A whole grilled fish and octopus, lemon and salad

    Port Said's fish tables

    The Delta's best fish, picked off the ice and grilled to order.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A stall loaded with brassware, trays and trinkets

    The shops of Port Said

    The canal's old free zone: Egyptians still come to buy cheaper here.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    BudgetWhere locals go