• Scoops of strawberry ice cream in white dishes, surrounded by fresh strawberries.

    Mandarine Koueider

    Buffalo-milk ice cream and oriental pastries, on a Zamalek pavement since 1928.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The cafés of Street 9

    Maadi's shopping street, its terraces and its pavement ahwas.

    CairoMaadi

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A large tray of baklava being dusted with ground pistachio at the counter.

    El Abd

    The patisserie where you eat standing on the pavement, and where the queue is part of the pleasure.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The ahwas of Sayeda Zeinab

    The popular cafés around the mosque, where Cairo gathers after evening prayer.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of puff-pastry cream horns.

    Tseppas

    A patisserie of Greek origin, in Cairo since the beginning of the last century.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Felfela

    Foul, taameya and salads in a grotto-like room, steps from Tahrir square.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetVegan options
  • Chunks of meat sizzling in a large frying pan, steam rising.

    Kebdet El Prince

    Our favourite

    The king of Alexandrian-style liver, served on pavement tables until the middle of the night.

    CairoImbaba

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Two peppers stuffed with minced meat in tomato sauce on a white plate.

    Fasahet Somaya

    Off the beaten track

    Home cooking, served in a tiny room, with the day's menu and nothing else.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Wekalet el-Balah

    The market of fabric by the metre, second-hand clothes and curtains: Cairo dresses here.

    CairoBoulaq

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Attaba market

    The centre's biggest street market: everything is sold here, and everything is shouted.

    CairoAttaba, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A fruit stall loaded to the edge: pineapples, papayas, pomegranates, oranges and bananas, prices handwritten on scraps of paper.

    Bab el-Louk market

    Downtown's food market: fruit, cheese, spices and fishmongers under a hall.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Muski

    The shopping street linking Attaba to Khan el-Khalili, where Cairo buys everything.

    CairoMuski, Islamic Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The bookshops of Talaat Harb

    Downtown's Arabic bookshop windows, and the second-hand stalls on the pavement.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Wooden cages stacked one on top of another, each with a bird behind its bars.

    The bird market of Sayeda Zeinab

    Off the beaten track

    A Friday morning market selling birds, pigeons and poultry, as it always has.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • El Sawy Culturewheel

    A cultural centre under a bridge, where young Cairo goes to gigs without alcohol.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A brass darbuka drum alone against a black background.

    Makan — Egyptian Center for Culture and Arts

    Our favourite

    Zar and Nubian music nights, in a small Downtown room.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Zawya

    Cairo's arthouse cinema, in a historic Downtown auditorium.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetPaid entry
  • A folk dance troupe in colourful costumes on a lit stage.

    The Balloon Theatre

    The national folk troupes — tanoura, Upper Egyptian dances, Nubian songs.

    CairoAgouza

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A rattan table and armchairs on a rooftop terrace, lanterns lit at dusk.

    The Odeon rooftop

    A Downtown rooftop that serves at any hour, including when everything else is shut.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetRooftop
  • Summer open-air cinemas

    Screenings on rooftops and in gardens, from June to September.

    CairoCairo and the coast

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Al-Fattah Al-Aleem Mosque

    The new capital's great mosque, inaugurated in 2019 in the desert east of Cairo.

    CairoNew Administrative Capital

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ

    The largest cathedral in the Middle East, inaugurated in 2019 facing the mosque.

    CairoNew Administrative Capital

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Tower cranes above unfinished high-rise buildings, backlit.

    The New Capital's business district

    Off the beaten track

    Twenty towers in the desert, including Africa's tallest: a skyline out of nowhere.

    CairoNew Administrative Capital

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The Royal Carriages Museum

    The khedives' state carriages, reopened to the public after twenty years of restoration.

    CairoBoulaq

    BudgetHistoric venue