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The Citadel's lower gate, restored and reopened after two centuries closed.
CairoCitadel, Darb el-Ahmar
Kilometres of riverbank given back to walkers, with benches, lighting and cafés.
CairoFrom Qasr el-Nil bridge to Maadi
An elevated line above Greater Cairo — the ride is worth it for the view.
CairoEast and west of Greater Cairo
A necropolis kilometres long where people have lived among the tombs for centuries.
CairoQarafa, Islamic Cairo
A well from 861 that measured the flood and set the tax for all Egypt.
CairoRhoda island
Three kilometres of Mamluk arches that carried Nile water up to the Citadel.
CairoFustat
The khedives' locomotives, including Ismail Pasha's gilded saloon carriage.
CairoRamses station
A 1907 palace on the Nile, now an art centre — painted ceilings and original parquet.
CairoZamalek
The sculptor of "Egypt's Awakening", in a pavilion designed for his work.
Tree trunks turned to stone thirty million years ago, on Cairo's doorstep.
CairoSouth-east of Maadi
Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.
CairoAzbakeya, Downtown
Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.
CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City
Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.
CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq
A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.
CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City
Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.
CairoNile west bank, Cairo
Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.
CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo
The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.
CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo
Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.
CairoAll across Cairo
Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.
Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.
CairoMohandessin and branches
The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.
Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.
The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.
Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.
CairoCairo and Alexandria