• Bab al-Azab

    Off the beaten track

    The Citadel's lower gate, restored and reopened after two centuries closed.

    CairoCitadel, Darb el-Ahmar

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Nile bank laid out in planted terraces, bougainvillea in flower in front of the river.

    The renovated Nile corniche

    Kilometres of riverbank given back to walkers, with benches, lighting and cafés.

    CairoFrom Qasr el-Nil bridge to Maadi

    BudgetNile view
  • The Cairo monorail

    An elevated line above Greater Cairo — the ride is worth it for the view.

    CairoEast and west of Greater Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A white dome and stone minarets of Islamic Cairo, above the city's rooftops.

    The City of the Dead

    Off the beaten track

    A necropolis kilometres long where people have lived among the tombs for centuries.

    CairoQarafa, Islamic Cairo

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Rhoda nilometer

    Off the beaten track

    A well from 861 that measured the flood and set the tax for all Egypt.

    CairoRhoda island

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Magra el-Oyoun aqueduct

    Off the beaten track

    Three kilometres of Mamluk arches that carried Nile water up to the Citadel.

    CairoFustat

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The red driving wheels of an old steam locomotive, with its coupling rod.

    The Railway Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The khedives' locomotives, including Ismail Pasha's gilded saloon carriage.

    CairoRamses station

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Aisha Fahmy Palace

    A 1907 palace on the Nile, now an art centre — painted ceilings and original parquet.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mahmoud Mokhtar Museum

    The sculptor of "Egypt's Awakening", in a pavilion designed for his work.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A whole tree trunk turned to stone, lying on desert gravel.

    The Petrified Forest of Maadi

    Off the beaten track

    Tree trunks turned to stone thirty million years ago, on Cairo's doorstep.

    CairoSouth-east of Maadi

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Stacks of second-hand books and textbooks piled to the top, packed tight against one another.

    The Azbakeya book market

    Our favourite

    Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.

    CairoAzbakeya, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Identical rental bicycles, lined up side by side.

    Cairo Bike

    Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • A passenger boat moored on the Nile, in front of a palm-lined bank.

    The Nile river bus

    Our favourite

    Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.

    CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq

    BudgetNile view
  • Three visitors sitting with their backs to us on a wooden bench, facing a large yellow wall in an exhibition room.

    Cairo's art galleries

    A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • The Friday market of Sayeda Aisha

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest flea market, under the aqueduct's arches.

    CairoSayeda Aisha, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A hand plucks the strings of an oud, above the carved rosettes of its soundboard.

    The ahwas of Mohamed Ali street

    Off the beaten track

    The street of instrument makers and wedding musicians, and its waiting cafés.

    CairoMohamed Ali street, Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A shawarma spit turning in front of a shop counter.

    Gad

    Egypt's default canteen: foul, shawarma, grills, open late and everywhere.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A golden falafel patty flecked with herbs, tucked into flatbread.

    El Shabrawy

    Egyptian breakfast to go: foul, taameya, eggs, at any hour.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Falafel balls on lettuce, a bowl of white cream dusted with paprika and flatbread, all on one plate.

    El-Tabei El-Domyati

    Foul, taameya and Damietta cheeses, in a room where you actually sit down.

    CairoMohandessin and branches

    BudgetVegan options
  • A breaded chicken burger with fried wings and fries, on a slate board.

    Mo'men

    The Egyptian sandwich, industrialised: breaded chicken, burgers, and a children's menu.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Thinly sliced grilled meat rolled in flatbread, set on lettuce.

    Cook Door

    Shawarma, savoury crêpes and burgers: the late-night chain.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A cheeseburger with melted cheese and a serving of chips, on an outdoor table.

    Buffalo Burger

    The Egyptian delivery burger, now a national standard.

    CairoAll across Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • Sliced, golden shawarma meat piled on a stainless steel plate.

    Bazooka

    Syrian-style shawarma served in outsized portions.

    CairoCairo and Alexandria

    BudgetBudget