• A chef-plated dish: a piece coated in amber sauce, glazed pearls and edible flowers.

    Khufu's

    A fine-dining table set facing the Great Pyramid.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • Whole sea bream laid on crushed ice, their eyes clear.

    Christo

    Fish by weight with the pyramids behind, since the 1970s.

    GizaPyramids road, Giza

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A plate of hummus dusted with sumac, grilled chicken, rice and chopped salad.

    Sabaya

    Cairo's reference Lebanese table, in a hotel by the river.

    CairoGarden City, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • A plate of golden rice with pieces of meat and cloves of garlic.

    Osmanly

    Egypt's Ottoman cooking, served in a palace salon.

    CairoGarden City, Nile side

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • A mixed grill platter — chops, kofta and chicken — with flatbread, sauces and salad.

    Kebabgy

    Egyptian grills on a terrace set at the river's edge.

    CairoZamalek, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Whole sea bream packed side by side on a fishmonger's stall.

    Fish Market — Cairo

    A moored boat where you pick your fish off the ice before sitting down.

    CairoAgouza, Nile side

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Zia Amelia

    The marina's Italian table, fresh pasta and a pizza oven.

    HurghadaAbu Tig Marina, El Gouna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • A margherita pizza on a wooden table, tomatoes and garlic beside it.

    Kiki's

    Pizzas and pasta in the heart of El Gouna's Downtown, at reasonable prices.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A glass of sugarcane juice in front of freshly cut lengths of cane.

    The tables of Qena

    Off the beaten track

    A road stop between Luxor and Dendera, where you eat for next to nothing.

    LuxorQena

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three whole fish clamped in a wire grill basket over the embers, with a plate of ash-baked potatoes beside them.

    Esna's fish

    Nile tilapia grilled beside the lock, fifty kilometres from Luxor.

    LuxorEsna

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A sliced-meat sandwich in flatbread, held in its paper wrapper.

    The tables of Beni Suef

    Off the beaten track

    A staging town on the road south, and its roadside grills.

    FayoumBeni Suef

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Meat turned with tongs, above the flames

    El Dahar's grills

    Hurghada's old quarter eats at its own tables, not the marina's.

    HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of grilled minced-meat fingers on the grill, in the smoke.

    The tables of Ras Sudr

    Fish and grills on the Gulf of Suez coast, two hours from Cairo.

    SinaiRas Sudr, Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A row of chicken and pepper skewers

    Sidi Bishr's grills

    The district where Alexandria has dinner on weekdays, away from the tourist Corniche.

    AlexandriaSidi Bishr, east of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Stuffed vine leaves topped with lemon slices, between two trays of salads.

    Eating vegetarian in Cairo

    Our favourite

    Egyptian popular cooking is largely vegan — you just have to know it.

    CairoAll over Cairo

    BudgetVegan options
  • Two milky coffees in glasses, on white trays at a café table.

    The tables of Maadi

    The leafy southern district, its terraces and its international dining.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The tables of Zamalek

    Cairo's island and its restaurants per square kilometre.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • A mezze table in small silver bowls

    Cairo's Lebanese tables

    Mezze, grills and fatteh: the foreign cuisine most firmly settled in Egypt.

    CairoZamalek, Mohandessin, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • Sergeant-major fish above fire coral, in front of a shoal of small silver fish.

    Royal Seascope

    Hurghada's boat with portholes: see the coral without getting wet, or knowing how to swim.

    HurghadaHurghada Marina, town centre

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The promenade's wooden footbridge, its lamp posts, and the resort's arcades beyond.

    Old Town Sahl Hasheesh

    A piazza, paved lanes and a pier: the one place in Sahl Hasheesh where you walk.

    HurghadaSahl Hasheesh, some twenty kilometres south of Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Four coloured slides emptying into the pool under a blue sky.

    Aqua Park El Obour

    North-east Cairo's water park — but only in the hot season.

    CairoEl Obour City, km 31 of the Cairo–Ismailia road, Qalyubia governorate

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The large “family park” sign by the road, with a white dome behind the flowering hedge.

    Family Park

    Eighty feddans of lawns and rides at km 26 of the Suez road: the weekend outing of New Cairo families.

    CairoNew Cairo — Al Rehab

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Ski Egypt

    Seven thousand tonnes of snow at minus two degrees, inside a mall west of Cairo.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • Coloured bowling balls on the ball return, in front of the lanes and the pins.

    Magic Planet

    The indoor games hall at Mall of Egypt: arcade, rides and bowling, for when it is forty degrees outside.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly