• Glazed doughnuts drizzled with chocolate, piled on a tray.

    La Poire

    The neighbourhood patisserie where Cairo families buy the Friday cake.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A cappuccino on a wooden table, next to an open book.

    Kotob Khan

    An independent bookshop and publisher, with a café where people work all afternoon.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A wall of shelves filled with books, standing row upon row.

    Diwan

    The bookshop that reopened Cairo's appetite for reading, with a café corner at the back.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The cafés of Street 9

    Maadi's shopping street, its terraces and its pavement ahwas.

    CairoMaadi

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A large tray of baklava being dusted with ground pistachio at the counter.

    El Abd

    The patisserie where you eat standing on the pavement, and where the queue is part of the pleasure.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The ahwas of Sayeda Zeinab

    The popular cafés around the mosque, where Cairo gathers after evening prayer.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Chocolate- and cream-frosted cupcakes on tiered display stands.

    Nola

    The cakes and cupcakes Cairenes bring when they are invited somewhere.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Rows of puff-pastry cream horns.

    Tseppas

    A patisserie of Greek origin, in Cairo since the beginning of the last century.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Sequoia

    A vast terrace at the tip of the island, where shisha is smoked with your feet above the Nile.

    CairoNorthern tip of Zamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • A row of chrome beer taps on a pub counter in the evening.

    The Tap

    The Cairo pub where matches are watched, with a beer list that is wide for the country.

    CairoMaadi and other districts

    €€€ High endAlcohol served
  • The cafés of Korba

    Heliopolis's neo-Moorish arcades, their terraces and their patisseries.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Three coloured-glass lanterns hanging beneath a red and purple fabric canopy.

    Abou El Sid

    Egyptian cooking served in a dark oriental salon, cushions and lanterns included.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • Felfela

    Foul, taameya and salads in a grotto-like room, steps from Tahrir square.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetVegan options
  • Chunks of meat sizzling in a large frying pan, steam rising.

    Kebdet El Prince

    Our favourite

    The king of Alexandrian-style liver, served on pavement tables until the middle of the night.

    CairoImbaba

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Two peppers stuffed with minced meat in tomato sauce on a white plate.

    Fasahet Somaya

    Off the beaten track

    Home cooking, served in a tiny room, with the day's menu and nothing else.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three kofta skewers on flatbread with grilled vegetables, tomato salad and a red sauce.

    Taboula

    Levantine mezze in a vaulted cellar, close to the Corniche.

    CairoGarden City

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • Wekalet el-Balah

    The market of fabric by the metre, second-hand clothes and curtains: Cairo dresses here.

    CairoBoulaq

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Attaba market

    The centre's biggest street market: everything is sold here, and everything is shouted.

    CairoAttaba, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Gold sets lined up on their busts, in the window

    The gold market (Sagha)

    The Khan's goldsmiths, where gold is sold by the gram and the work is charged separately.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    €€€ High endHandmade
  • Hand-blown glass perfume bottles, twisted with colour, set on a glass shelf.

    Khan Misr Touloun

    An Egyptian craft shop facing the Ibn Tulun mosque, with no haggling and no pressure.

    CairoIbn Tulun, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Coiled baskets with conical lids, in coloured geometric patterns.

    Fair Trade Egypt

    Crafts from rural cooperatives, at marked prices, with the workshop's name on the label.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • A large chased silver medallion hung with flower-shaped drops.

    Nomad Gallery

    Bedouin jewellery and Nubian silver, in a Zamalek gallery-flat.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endHandmade
  • A crowded bookshop, books piled on the tables and up to the shelves at the back.

    Oum El Dounia

    Bookshop and crafts on the first floor of a Talaat Harb building, facing the Egyptian Museum.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Rows of leather-bound books, raised bands and gilded titles.

    Abd El Zaher, bookbinders

    Off the beaten track

    Cairo's last hand bookbinding workshop, behind the al-Azhar mosque.

    CairoAl-Azhar, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade