• The ochre facades of Hurghada Marina and the sailboat masts, mirrored in the calm morning water.

    Cheguevara

    Flambé steaks and a view of the harbour masts — a safe bet on the quay.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A red cocktail with a straw, set facing the sun as it drops over the water.

    Granada Restaurant & Pub

    The smart sunset table: open sea view, cocktails, polished service.

    HurghadaHurghada

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Two whole sardines and two lemon wedges, in a metal dish.

    Grill & Chill

    Fresh grilled fish at the fairest price on the marina.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A brick oven, flames at the back and dough puffing up on the hearth.

    Solo Restaurant

    Wood-fired pizzas and steaks, in a pleasant setting with no showing off.

    HurghadaHurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A grilled beef steak, sliced, with herb butter.

    Luca's Pub & Grub

    A pub that serves proper cuts of meat, including a tomahawk for two.

    HurghadaMarina, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A wooden deck built out over the water, tables set facing the sunset.

    Caribbean Bar — Bella Vista

    A bar with its feet in the water, built for the exact hour of sunset.

    HurghadaBella Vista, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Milk poured into a cappuccino, drawing a leaf in the foam.

    Caffeine Specialty Coffee

    Properly extracted specialty coffee — the one address in town that takes the subject seriously.

    HurghadaHurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A pierced lantern, a teapot and a glass of mint tea on a brass tray, among wooden café chairs.

    Zahret el-Bustan

    Our favourite

    The ahwa of students, poets and insomniacs, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A wooden king and pawns on a chessboard, a game under way.

    El Horreya

    A vast room with bare walls where tea and beer have been served at the same tables for decades.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • An alley lined with low stools and small tables

    The ahwas of El Borsa

    Two pedestrian lanes entirely covered in chairs: Cairo's largest open-air café.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cappuccino in a thick cup on a wooden board, with biscuits, coffee beans and cinnamon.

    Simonds

    The counter where Zamalek has taken its cappuccino standing up since 1898.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Scoops of strawberry ice cream in white dishes, surrounded by fresh strawberries.

    Mandarine Koueider

    Buffalo-milk ice cream and oriental pastries, on a Zamalek pavement since 1928.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A koshari and sesame taameya on an engraved brass tray.

    Naguib Mahfouz Café

    The air-conditioned stop in the heart of the souk, when the bazaar becomes too much for the legs.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A bookshop aisle between two wooden shelves packed with books.

    Sufi — bookshop and café

    A neighbourhood bookshop with a few tables, where you stay longer than planned.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A felucca under full sail on the river at dusk.

    Left Bank

    A Nile terrace at the southern tip of Zamalek, for a coffee that lasts until dinner.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Cilantro

    The Egyptian café chain you find everywhere, and that always does the job.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Chocolate-chip cookies stacked on a wooden board.

    Beano's

    The other long-standing Cairo chain, for late breakfasts and informal meetings.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A pour-over coffee being brewed: glass carafe, scale and grinder.

    Espresso Lab

    Our favourite

    Egyptian specialty coffee, roasted in-house and served by baristas who explain.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Glazed doughnuts drizzled with chocolate, piled on a tray.

    La Poire

    The neighbourhood patisserie where Cairo families buy the Friday cake.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A cappuccino on a wooden table, next to an open book.

    Kotob Khan

    An independent bookshop and publisher, with a café where people work all afternoon.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A wall of shelves filled with books, standing row upon row.

    Diwan

    The bookshop that reopened Cairo's appetite for reading, with a café corner at the back.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The cafés of Street 9

    Maadi's shopping street, its terraces and its pavement ahwas.

    CairoMaadi

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A large tray of baklava being dusted with ground pistachio at the counter.

    El Abd

    The patisserie where you eat standing on the pavement, and where the queue is part of the pleasure.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The ahwas of Sayeda Zeinab

    The popular cafés around the mosque, where Cairo gathers after evening prayer.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go