• Port Fouad

    Off the beaten track

    A town in Asia ten minutes away by ferry, with wooden villas and gardens.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Fouad, Port Said

    BudgetSea view
  • A wooden jetty running from the sand out into the sea.

    Ras el-Bar

    The spit where the Nile meets the Mediterranean, and the two waters visibly touch.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetSea view
  • A mosque strung with lights at night, a dense crowd filling the square in front of it.

    The mawlid of Sayyid al-Badawi

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest Sufi gathering: a week of sleepless nights in Tanta.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Feluccas under sail on the Nile at sunset, in front of an inhabited bank.

    The Damietta corniche

    The Nile a few kilometres from its mouth, lined with cafés and boatyards.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetNile view
  • A loaded container ship seen head-on, cutting through open water.

    The Suez corniche

    Off the beaten track

    The canal's southern entrance, where ships queue for their turn.

    The Delta and the north coastSuez

    BudgetSea view
  • The Delta's bathhouses

    Off the beaten track

    Neighbourhood hammams still working, far from hotel spas.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta and Mansoura

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Identical rental bicycles, lined up side by side.

    Cairo Bike

    Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • A passenger boat moored on the Nile, in front of a palm-lined bank.

    The Nile river bus

    Our favourite

    Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.

    CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq

    BudgetNile view
  • Three visitors sitting with their backs to us on a wooden bench, facing a large yellow wall in an exhibition room.

    Cairo's art galleries

    A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A split granite block standing in the middle of a stone quarry.

    Aswan's granite quarries

    The worksite that produced the obelisks and colossi of all Egypt.

    AswanAswan

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Blue fishing boats moored on both sides of a canal lined with houses.

    El Max

    Off the beaten track

    A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.

    AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Montazah gardens

    A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • An orange-and-white striped beach parasol seen from below against a blue sky.

    Maamoura beach

    The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.

    AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Old Quseir

    Off the beaten track

    An Ottoman port left intact between Hurghada and Marsa Alam.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaQuseir

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Whole fish laid out in rows on a fishmonger's stall, pink shrimp in the middle.

    Hurghada's fishing port

    Off the beaten track

    The morning auction, two streets from the hotels and a world from their mood.

    HurghadaSekalla, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Nile in Cairo, its banks planted with palms and a flame tree in bloom.

    The Ahl Masr promenade

    Kilometres of pedestrian riverbank, lit and planted, open until late.

    CairoNile west bank, Cairo

    BudgetNile view
  • A pair of white figure skates, blades resting on scored ice.

    ICE Planet — Family Land

    A real ice rink on the Maadi corniche, inside a leisure complex that has aged around it.

    CairoMaadi, Nile Corniche

    BudgetFamily-friendly