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Cairo's camel market, early in the morning: animals, sticks and dust.
GizaBirqash
West Cairo's amusement park: rides, queues, and very little shade.
Sheikh Zayed & 6th October6th of October City
Lift-off before daylight on the west bank: the wind picks the route, not an itinerary.
LuxorWest bank
The temple stands floodlit gold at the roadside, and people sit out on the Corniche until late.
LuxorCorniche
The wadi of royal wives and children, and Nefertari's tomb, which is paid for separately.
The village of the men who cut the royal tombs: their houses, their tombs, their accounts.
A Ptolemaic temple still almost whole, roof included, dug out of the silt in the 1860s.
LuxorEdfu
A hypostyle hall on its own, at the bottom of a pit, under the town that grew over it.
LuxorEsna
Hathor's face on every capital, and a zodiac taken from the roof in 1821, now in the Louvre.
LuxorDendera
A granite jumble covered in inscriptions: floods, expeditions, a seven-year famine.
AswanNile
The work that stopped the Nile flood: the river on one side, a freshwater sea on the other.
AswanThe Dam
A fortified monastery abandoned in the thirteenth century, alone in the west-bank sand.
AswanWest bank
One long covered street a block back from the river: hibiscus, Nubian basketry, spices.
AswanSouk
Black water, moored feluccas, and headlights sliding along the parapet.
AswanCorniche
A calcite outcrop beside the Farafra road: a rock arch, and crystal splinters all over the ground.
The oases and the Western DesertFarafra road
A medieval mud-brick town: covered lanes, dated door lintels, a minaret and a grain mill.
The oases and the Western DesertDakhla
A Christian cemetery of vaulted mud-brick chapels, their walls covered in Greek graffiti.
The oases and the Western DesertKharga
An oasis of offices and fields, strung with temples and forts along an old caravan road.
A Ptolemaic temple still standing at the far end of Lake Qarun: rooms, stairs, roof, cellars.
FayoumQasr Qarun
A fourth-century Coptic monastery under an Eastern Desert cliff, still lived in today.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaEastern Desert
A shallow sandy bay north of Marsa Alam, known for its turtles and its seagrass meadows.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam
A stone pool fed by a spring, lit after dark, on the Aghurmi road out of Siwa.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa
A spit of palms in Siwa's salt lake, where people sit down for the sunset.
A Greek patisserie of the 1920s: you pick from the chilled cabinet, prices on the labels.
AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul