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Mountains, gravel plains and acacias south of Marsa Alam. Not a place for an ordinary car.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam
The Gulf of Suez, about two hours from Cairo: freighters on the horizon and a day by the sea.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna
A desert depression filled with the Fayoum's drainage water: two lakes and dunes.
FayoumWadi El Rayan
Skeletons of whales with legs, left in the sand exactly where they were uncovered.
FayoumWadi El Hitan
A salt lake below sea level, all that is left of the ancients' Lake Moeris.
FayoumLake Qarun
An alabaster cave at the end of a quarry track, opened by a quarry blast.
FayoumBeni Suef
Chalk outcrops standing in the sand, carved by the wind. Beyond the tarmac it is 4×4 country.
The oases and the Western DesertFarafra, New Valley
An oasis that Cairo coaches reach in a day: palm groves, hot springs, black-capped hills to the south.
The oases and the Western DesertBahariya, Western Desert
Palm groves under a pink escarpment, and a mud-brick quarter called al-Qasr.
The oases and the Western DesertDakhla, New Valley
A small town, a palm grove, hot springs, and the road north into the White Desert.
A desert depression with salt lakes, a palm grove, and a mud-brick fortress in the middle.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa
A small turquoise cove at the foot of a limestone cliff, west of Marsa Matrouh.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matrouh
A fishermen's lagoon between the Delta and the sea, with next to nothing laid on for visitors.
The Delta and the north coastKafr el-Sheikh
A depression of salt lakes on the desert road, and four monasteries still lived in.
The Delta and the north coastWadi el-Natrun
A whole island turned into a botanical garden, a few minutes by boat from the corniche.
AswanNile, Aswan
The spine of Fatimid Cairo, from Bab al-Futuh to Bab Zuweila, and best walked.
CairoGamaliya
An Ottoman house of 1648 in a lane off al-Muizz, courtyard and mashrabiya intact.
A public fountain of 1744 at the fork of al-Muizz, the Quran school above it.
CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya
A madrasa and Sufi khanqah of 1386, third façade of the Bayn al-Qasrayn row.
Cairo's flea market: whatever the city threw out, sold again on a Friday morning.
CairoSayyida Aisha
The covered tentmakers' street south of Bab Zuweila: appliqué still sewn by hand.
CairoDarb el-Ahmar
Public transport on the river: crossing Cairo by water, for the price of a bus fare.
CairoCorniche el-Nil
The fanous market, a few weeks a year: cut tin, coloured glass, and a street that stays up.
CairoSayyida Zeinab
The royal mummies have been here since 2021, and the story runs right up to Egypt today.
CairoFustat
