• The Muski

    The shopping street linking Attaba to Khan el-Khalili, where Cairo buys everything.

    CairoMuski, Islamic Cairo

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • The bookshops of Talaat Harb

    Downtown's Arabic bookshop windows, and the second-hand stalls on the pavement.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Wooden cages stacked one on top of another, each with a bird behind its bars.

    The bird market of Sayeda Zeinab

    Off the beaten track

    A Friday morning market selling birds, pigeons and poultry, as it always has.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rolls of fabric in every colour, stacked one on top of another.

    Zanket el-Settat

    "The women's lane": a one-metre-wide alley, packed from morning to night.

    AlexandriaManshiya, Alexandria

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Crates of silver fish on the stall

    The Anfoushi fish market

    The fishing port's auction at dawn, before the city wakes.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Luxor souk

    The souk's covered street: spices, galabiyas, statuettes and a great deal of bargaining.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    € BudgetHandmade
  • Hand-woven baskets with their handles, stacked one against another.

    Nubian crafts in Gharb Soheil

    Woven baskets, necklaces and spices sold in the painted houses of the Nubian village.

    AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan

    € BudgetHandmade
  • The bazaars of Masbat

    Bedouin jewellery, textiles and dive gear, along the promenade.

    SinaiMasbat, Dahab

    € BudgetHandmade
  • The fish market of Lake Burullus

    Lagoon fish sold straight from the boats, in the northern Delta.

    The Delta and the north coastBurullus

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Open sacks of spices and grains on the stall

    Marsa Matruh market

    The coastal town's market: figs, dates, Bedouin wool and beach goods.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matruh

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Kharga market

    Dates, baskets and pottery from the oasis, in the Western Desert's largest town.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pointed brick archway and old wooden doors in a narrow street.

    Esna souk

    A restored souk street around the temple, between old shops and a caravanserai.

    LuxorEsna, south of Luxor

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • El Sawy Culturewheel

    A cultural centre under a bridge, where young Cairo goes to gigs without alcohol.

    CairoZamalek

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A brass darbuka drum alone against a black background.

    Makan — Egyptian Center for Culture and Arts

    Our favourite

    Zar and Nubian music nights, in a small Downtown room.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Zawya

    Cairo's arthouse cinema, in a historic Downtown auditorium.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetPaid entry
  • A folk dance troupe in colourful costumes on a lit stage.

    The Balloon Theatre

    The national folk troupes — tanoura, Upper Egyptian dances, Nubian songs.

    CairoAgouza

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A rattan table and armchairs on a rooftop terrace, lanterns lit at dusk.

    The Odeon rooftop

    A Downtown rooftop that serves at any hour, including when everything else is shut.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetRooftop
  • Grilled squid and a prawn, with a roasted lemon wedge.

    Cap d'Or

    Our favourite

    An Art Nouveau tavern serving beer and prawns for a century.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • Spitfire Bar

    Alexandria's sailors' bar, walls covered in stickers and badges from all over the world.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • The taverns of central Alexandria

    The city's last Greek and Italian bars, within three streets of each other.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    € BudgetHistoric venue
  • A wood fire on the sand at night, hands held out to the flames.

    Assalah evenings

    Campfires, acoustic music and cushions by the water: night in Dahab.

    SinaiAssalah, Dahab

    € BudgetSea view
  • Wooden skin drums set down in the evening light.

    Nubian evenings in Gharb Soheil

    Drums, songs and dancing in the village houses, after dinner.

    AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Summer open-air cinemas

    Screenings on rooftops and in gardens, from June to September.

    CairoCairo and the coast

    € BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Ras Shitan

    Palm huts at the water's edge, facing the Saudi mountains.

    SinaiNuweiba, South Sinai

    € BudgetSea view