• Three whole chickens browning on the spit, lined up over the heat.

    Andrea Mariouteya

    Charcoal-grilled chicken in a garden, on the edge of Cairo, since the 1960s.

    GizaMariouteya road, Giza

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A market stall piled with small fresh red mullet.

    Abou Ashraf

    Fish picked off the ice, grilled in the alley, eaten at plastic tables.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The columns of Luxor Temple, floodlit gold against the night sky.

    Al Sahaby Lane

    A rooftop terrace above the souk, with the illuminated Luxor temple as a backdrop.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeRooftop
  • The sun sets over the Nile, the town in silhouette on the far bank.

    Panorama

    A simple terrace on the corniche, to dine while the feluccas come home.

    AswanCorniche, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • Ochre vaulted houses and blue-painted terraces backing onto the hillside.

    Nubian House

    A Nubian dinner on the west bank, in a house painted blue and ochre.

    AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Two whole fish laid out on crushed ice at a stall.

    El Masrien

    Fish by weight in the Old Market, half the price of Naama Bay.

    Sharm el-SheikhOld Market, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Bamboo benches spread with striped mattresses and cushions, set right on the sand facing the sea.

    Dahab's seafront tables

    Eating with your feet in the sand, a metre from the reef, watching divers come back.

    SinaiAssalah, Dahab

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Hand-blown glass perfume bottles, twisted with colour, set on a glass shelf.

    Khan Misr Touloun

    An Egyptian craft shop facing the Ibn Tulun mosque, with no haggling and no pressure.

    CairoIbn Tulun, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Coiled baskets with conical lids, in coloured geometric patterns.

    Fair Trade Egypt

    Crafts from rural cooperatives, at marked prices, with the workshop's name on the label.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • A crowded bookshop, books piled on the tables and up to the shelves at the back.

    Oum El Dounia

    Bookshop and crafts on the first floor of a Talaat Harb building, facing the Egyptian Museum.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Rows of leather-bound books, raised bands and gilded titles.

    Abd El Zaher, bookbinders

    Off the beaten track

    Cairo's last hand bookbinding workshop, behind the al-Azhar mosque.

    CairoAl-Azhar, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • City Stars

    Nasr City's big mall: brands, cinemas and an indoor children's park.

    CairoNasr City

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Brass lanterns hanging in the half-light

    The bazaars of Nazlet el-Semman

    The shops at the foot of the pyramids: papyrus, alabaster, statuettes — and the art of bargaining.

    GizaNazlet el-Semman, Giza

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Cones of spices in their basins, and baskets of seeds

    The Attarine souk

    Our favourite

    Alexandria's antiques market: furniture, chandeliers and china from houses that closed.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • City Centre Alexandria

    Alexandria's big mall, with a hypermarket and international brands.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A stone carver at the chisel, on a pale block

    The alabaster workshops of Gurna

    Vases and lamps cut from translucent stone, on the road to the tombs.

    LuxorWest bank, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • The pottery workshops of Tunis

    Our favourite

    Some twenty ceramic workshops in a village perched above the lake.

    FayoumTunis village, Lake Qarun

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Woven rugs with geometric patterns hung above clothes in a craft shop.

    Siwan crafts

    Siwan embroidery, Berber silver, palm baskets and oasis olive oil.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • A pencil line on the board, shavings and chisel

    The furniture workshops of Damietta

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's furniture capital: whole streets of cabinetmakers and wood carvers.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • The shops of Marsa Alam

    Few shops, plenty of dive gear: the bare necessities of the southern Red Sea.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • An exhibition wall: twelve framed prints and a bench, in black and white.

    Darb 1718

    Off the beaten track

    A contemporary art centre in Old Cairo, with evening concerts and exhibitions.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • The Windsor Hotel bar

    A 1900s lounge bar with leather armchairs, left exactly as it was.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A mezze plate: hummus with olives, flatbread, falafel and salad.

    Estoril

    A Downtown tavern where journalists, artists and regulars have met since 1969.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A singer's silhouette at a microphone under purple stage light.

    After Eight

    Downtown's live music club, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served