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A horseshoe reef where a colony of spinner dolphins comes to rest.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaHamata, southern Red Sea
A 300-metre-long seamount, one of Egypt's best-known dive sites.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaOff Marsa Alam
Dunes as far as the eye can see west of Siwa, up to the Libyan border.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa
A seaside city risen from the sand in five years, its towers standing in the Mediterranean.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast
Koshari plated, molokheya on a tasting menu: Cairo's new table.
CairoZamalek, Downtown, New Cairo
The city has started looking at its roofs — and putting bars on them.
CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City
The world's most awaited museum, visited once the coaches have gone.
GizaGiza plateau
Belle-époque buildings restored as small hotels — and their roofs open to everyone.
CairoDowntown
Mud-brick guesthouses above the lake, two hours from Cairo.
FayoumTunis and Lake Qarun
Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.
A week of Arab and international cinema, on the Red Sea.
HurghadaEl Gouna
The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.
CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo
Desert, lake and fields seen from above, two hours from Cairo.
FayoumLake Qarun, Fayoum
Sleeping among the chalk mushrooms, under one of the world's darkest skies.
The oases and the Western DesertFarafra
A British freighter sunk in 1941, its motorcycles and lorries still in the hold.
HurghadaStrait of Gubal, Red Sea
A new city on a plateau at seven hundred metres, above the Gulf of Suez.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna
A flat lagoon and thermal wind every afternoon, April to October.
A table with a direct view of the pyramids, tens of metres from the plateau.
The only restaurant inside the site, with all nine pyramids in a row.
GizaInside the Giza plateau
Alexandria's fish table, run by a former singer who became a neighbourhood legend.
AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria
A Greek taverna from 1929 at the water's edge, on the Abu Qir point.
AlexandriaAbu Qir, Alexandria
Fish by weight with a panoramic view over the eastern bay.
AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria
Grills and seafood facing the sea, steps from the Bibliotheca.
AlexandriaCorniche, near the Bibliotheca
Fish in front of the clearest water on Egypt's Mediterranean.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSidi Abdel Rahman, north coast