• A whole pod of spinner dolphins — what you come here for.

    Satayah reef

    A horseshoe reef where a colony of spinner dolphins comes to rest.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaHamata, southern Red Sea

    €€€ High endDiving / snorkelling
  • Elphinstone reef

    A 300-metre-long seamount, one of Egypt's best-known dive sites.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaOff Marsa Alam

    €€€ High endDiving / snorkelling
  • The Great Sand Sea

    Unmissable

    Dunes as far as the eye can see west of Siwa, up to the Libyan border.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€€ High endSunset
  • A paved seafront promenade at dusk, a line of towers in the distance.

    New Alamein

    A seaside city risen from the sand in five years, its towers standing in the Mediterranean.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaEl Alamein, north coast

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Smooth hummus, drizzled with olive oil and scattered with seeds.

    Egyptian cooking, reworked

    Koshari plated, molokheya on a tasting menu: Cairo's new table.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, New Cairo

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • Cairo's rooftops

    The city has started looking at its roofs — and putting bars on them.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    €€€ High endRooftop
  • The forecourt and the hanging obelisk, before the museum's triangulated façade.

    The Grand Egyptian Museum in the evening

    The world's most awaited museum, visited once the coaches have gone.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • A hotel room, bed made and bedside lamp lit.

    Downtown's boutique hotels

    Belle-époque buildings restored as small hotels — and their roofs open to everyone.

    CairoDowntown

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • A mud-brick lodge, domes and palms, at the desert's edge.

    Fayoum's eco-lodges

    Mud-brick guesthouses above the lake, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumTunis and Lake Qarun

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • A lodge and its palm grove, ringed by the dune.

    Siwa's lodges

    Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • A large golden curtain lit from within, above the rows of empty red seats of a darkened hall.

    The El Gouna Film Festival

    A week of Arab and international cinema, on the Red Sea.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€€ High endPaid entry
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • The flight goes up at first light, before the wind picks up.

    Flying over Lake Qarun

    Desert, lake and fields seen from above, two hours from Cairo.

    FayoumLake Qarun, Fayoum

    €€€ High endBest in the morning
  • The tents lit from within, once the sun has gone.

    A night in the White Desert

    Unmissable

    Sleeping among the chalk mushrooms, under one of the world's darkest skies.

    The oases and the Western DesertFarafra

    €€€ High endBooking advised
  • The Thistlegorm wreck

    Unmissable

    A British freighter sunk in 1941, its motorcycles and lorries still in the hold.

    HurghadaStrait of Gubal, Red Sea

    €€€ High endDiving / snorkelling
  • A desert road at the foot of a cliff, a lone car in the distance.

    El Galala

    A new city on a plateau at seven hundred metres, above the Gulf of Suez.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaAin Sokhna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Flat water and steady wind: the two reasons to come here.

    Kitesurfing in El Gouna

    A flat lagoon and thermal wind every afternoon, April to October.

    HurghadaEl Gouna

    €€€ High endSea view
  • The Giza pyramids standing above the city rooftops in the heat haze.

    Studio Misr

    A table with a direct view of the pyramids, tens of metres from the plateau.

    GizaGiza plateau

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • The edge of a great pyramid at Giza against a deep blue sky.

    9 Pyramids Lounge

    The only restaurant inside the site, with all nine pyramids in a row.

    GizaInside the Giza plateau

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A dish of large grilled prawns with lemon, garlic and tomatoes.

    Samakmak

    Our favourite

    Alexandria's fish table, run by a former singer who became a neighbourhood legend.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • A restaurant terrace of laid tables, facing the sea.

    Zephyrion

    A Greek taverna from 1929 at the water's edge, on the Abu Qir point.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, Alexandria

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Whole red fish laid out on crushed ice.

    Fish Market

    Fish by weight with a panoramic view over the eastern bay.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Meat, pepper and onion skewers on a charcoal grill.

    Tikka Grill

    Grills and seafood facing the sea, steps from the Bibliotheca.

    AlexandriaCorniche, near the Bibliotheca

    €€€ High endSea view
  • A platter of butterflied grilled fish with prawns, calamari rings, rice and lemon slices.

    The tables of Sidi Abdel Rahman

    Fish in front of the clearest water on Egypt's Mediterranean.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSidi Abdel Rahman, north coast

    €€€ High endSea view