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Hills capped with dark basalt, on the road to the White Desert.
The oases and the Western DesertBahariya
A lake among the dunes that changes colour with the day's light.
FayoumWadi el-Rayan, Fayoum
Tree trunks turned to stone thirty million years ago, on Cairo's doorstep.
CairoSouth-east of Maadi
The spit where the Nile meets the Mediterranean, and the two waters visibly touch.
The Delta and the north coastDamietta
Mud-brick guesthouses above the lake, two hours from Cairo.
FayoumTunis and Lake Qarun
Sleeping in karshif — salt and clay — by candlelight, without electricity.
Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa
Wooden huts by the reef, hours from the nearest hotel.
Marsa Alam & the Red SeaMarsa Alam and Hamata
Desert, lake and fields seen from above, two hours from Cairo.
FayoumLake Qarun, Fayoum
A Nubian village on a lake island, almost without visitors.
AswanSouth of the dam, Aswan
An unfinished temple of cyclopean blocks, alone in the desert above the lake.
FayoumNorth of Lake Qarun
Sleeping among the chalk mushrooms, under one of the world's darkest skies.
The oases and the Western DesertFarafra
A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.
AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria
A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.
AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria
The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.
AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria
A British freighter sunk in 1941, its motorcycles and lorries still in the hold.
HurghadaStrait of Gubal, Red Sea
A windsurfing port and a black-sand beach reputed to be therapeutic.
HurghadaSafaga
An eighteen-metre skeleton of a legged whale, in a museum buried in the desert.
FayoumWadi el-Hitan, Fayoum
A flat lagoon and thermal wind every afternoon, April to October.
HurghadaEl Gouna
Heliopolis's old racecourse turned neighbourhood park: grass, water, and crowds until midnight.
CairoHeliopolis
The neighbourhood garden cut to children's size: grass, benches, and a play area charged by the hour.
CairoNasr City
Sixty-five feddans around a lake in western Cairo — and it is not Zed Park.
Sheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSheikh Zayed
Two feddans of terraces at the water's edge: a garden to sit in, not to run in.
CairoZamalek
Grass, shade and room to spread out in the middle of Zamalek, two minutes from the metro.
The one hotel in Alexandria that publishes, in black and white, the price of a day at the pool with no room booked.
AlexandriaSan Stefano, on the Corniche
