• Cairo's Nile after dark

    The walk Cairenes actually take after dark: Qasr el-Nil bridge on foot, its lions, a glass of tea.

    CairoCorniche el-Nil

    BudgetNile view
  • Aquarium Grotto Garden

    Off the beaten track

    Rockwork grottoes built under Khedive Ismail, an aquarium opened in 1902, in the shade, in mid-Zamalek.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Wadi Degla Protectorate

    A dry limestone canyon on the edge of Maadi: an old sea floor, now a protected area.

    CairoMaadi

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Japanese Garden, Helwan

    Rows of seated Buddhas under parasols, in a Japanese-style garden south of Cairo.

    CairoHelwan

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Al-Muizz Street

    The spine of Fatimid Cairo, from Bab al-Futuh to Bab Zuweila, and best walked.

    CairoGamaliya

    BudgetOpen late
  • Beit el-Suhaymi

    An Ottoman house of 1648 in a lane off al-Muizz, courtyard and mashrabiya intact.

    CairoGamaliya

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Katkhuda Sabil-Kuttab

    Our favourite

    A public fountain of 1744 at the fork of al-Muizz, the Quran school above it.

    CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya

    BudgetUNESCO
  • Sultan Barquq Mosque

    A madrasa and Sufi khanqah of 1386, third façade of the Bayn al-Qasrayn row.

    CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • The Friday Market

    Cairo's flea market: whatever the city threw out, sold again on a Friday morning.

    CairoSayyida Aisha

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • The Tentmakers' Street

    Our favourite

    The covered tentmakers' street south of Bab Zuweila: appliqué still sewn by hand.

    CairoDarb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • The Nile river bus

    Public transport on the river: crossing Cairo by water, for the price of a bus fare.

    CairoCorniche el-Nil

    BudgetNile view
  • The Ramadan lanterns

    The fanous market, a few weeks a year: cut tin, coloured glass, and a street that stays up.

    CairoSayyida Zeinab

    BudgetHandmade
  • National Museum of Egyptian Civilisation

    Unmissable

    The royal mummies have been here since 2021, and the story runs right up to Egypt today.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A pierced lantern, a teapot and a glass of mint tea on a brass tray, among wooden café chairs.

    Zahret el-Bustan

    Our favourite

    The ahwa of students, poets and insomniacs, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A wooden king and pawns on a chessboard, a game under way.

    El Horreya

    A vast room with bare walls where tea and beer have been served at the same tables for decades.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • An alley lined with low stools and small tables

    The ahwas of El Borsa

    Two pedestrian lanes entirely covered in chairs: Cairo's largest open-air café.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cappuccino in a thick cup on a wooden board, with biscuits, coffee beans and cinnamon.

    Simonds

    The counter where Zamalek has taken its cappuccino standing up since 1898.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Scoops of strawberry ice cream in white dishes, surrounded by fresh strawberries.

    Mandarine Koueider

    Buffalo-milk ice cream and oriental pastries, on a Zamalek pavement since 1928.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A koshari and sesame taameya on an engraved brass tray.

    Naguib Mahfouz Café

    The air-conditioned stop in the heart of the souk, when the bazaar becomes too much for the legs.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • A bookshop aisle between two wooden shelves packed with books.

    Sufi — bookshop and café

    A neighbourhood bookshop with a few tables, where you stay longer than planned.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A felucca under full sail on the river at dusk.

    Left Bank

    A Nile terrace at the southern tip of Zamalek, for a coffee that lasts until dinner.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endNile view
  • Cilantro

    The Egyptian café chain you find everywhere, and that always does the job.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Chocolate-chip cookies stacked on a wooden board.

    Beano's

    The other long-standing Cairo chain, for late breakfasts and informal meetings.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • A pour-over coffee being brewed: glass carafe, scale and grinder.

    Espresso Lab

    Our favourite

    Egyptian specialty coffee, roasted in-house and served by baristas who explain.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning