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Cairo's nightlife institution: live bands midweek, big DJ sets at the weekend.
Sheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSheikh Zayed
You pick your fish off the ice, they grill it, you eat facing the harbour.
AlexandriaAnfoushi / Corniche
El-Manial's oriental table, on Roda Island, known to its neighbourhood long before any guidebook.
CairoEl-Manial
An Italian kitchen on the Nile in Zamalek, with prices to match the view.
CairoZamalek
You come up for Cairo seen from the top of the tower, not for the menu.
The national dish, from a house that has done nothing else for decades.
CairoDowntown
Cairo's oldest café, open without interruption since the late 18th century.
CairoKhan el-Khalili
Forty craft workshops under one roof, at posted prices.
CairoFustat, next to Coptic Cairo
Kebab and kofta over charcoal, in a working-class quarter of northern Cairo.
CairoRod El Farag
Everyday koshari — the neighbourhood bowl rather than the guidebook one.
CairoAbdeen
A Roman necropolis on three levels, where Anubis wears a legionary's armour.
AlexandriaKarmouz
Egypt's only surviving Roman theatre: thirteen tiers of marble in the middle of downtown.
AlexandriaKom el-Dikka
A 2002 library that has nothing of the ancient one but its name, and a reading room on eleven terraces.
AlexandriaShatby
A royal park by the sea where you visit the gardens, not the palace.
AlexandriaMontazah
The whole city's evening walk: grilled corn, salted lupins, anglers on the parapet.
AlexandriaEastern Harbour
A sixth-century monastery at the foot of Mount Sinai, lived in without a break since Justinian.
SinaiSinai
Egypt's first national park, at the tip of Sinai, where two gulfs meet.
Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh
Nubia before Lake Nasser, and the villages that had to be left behind.
AswanAswan
An obelisk still lying in its quarry, cracked: the one place that shows how they were cut.
AswanQuarries
Two temples cut into the cliff by Ramesses II, then sliced apart and rebuilt higher up, 280 km south.
AswanAbu Simbel
One sail, no engine: the wind decides how your hour on the river goes.
AswanNile
The island in mid-river: two Nubian villages, ruins, and the nilometer that set the tax.
Egypt was ruled from this crag above the city for seven hundred years, and the view still earns the climb.
CairoCitadel
Cairo's largest Mamluk complex — and a mausoleum whose occupant never arrived.
CairoRumeila
