• A felucca in Aswan

    Our favourite

    One sail, no engine: the wind decides how your hour on the river goes.

    AswanNile

    €€ Mid-rangeSunset
  • Elephantine Island

    The island in mid-river: two Nubian villages, ruins, and the nilometer that set the tax.

    AswanNile

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Sultan Hassan Mosque

    Cairo's largest Mamluk complex — and a mausoleum whose occupant never arrived.

    CairoRumeila

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Al-Rifai Mosque

    Muhammad Ali's dynasty rests here — and, with it, the last Shah of Iran.

    CairoRumeila

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Gayer-Anderson Museum

    A furnished Ottoman house, lived in as it was, pressed against Ibn Tulun's outer wall.

    CairoSayyida Zeinab

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • Museum of Islamic Art

    Egypt's richest collection of Islamic art, down to the enamelled Mamluk mosque lamps.

    CairoBab el-Khalq

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Coptic Museum

    The largest collection of Coptic art anywhere, in a museum built against the walls of the Babylon fortress.

    CairoOld Cairo, Fustat

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • Prince Mohamed Ali Palace

    Buildings, borrowed styles, a garden of rare trees — on an island in the middle of Cairo.

    CairoManial, Roda Island

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • Baron Empain Palace

    A concrete Hindu temple on the airport road, long left to rumour.

    CairoHeliopolis

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Abdeen Palace

    Off the beaten track

    The day power left the Citadel and came down into the city.

    CairoAbdeen

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Groppi

    The tea room of cosmopolitan Cairo, faded and now under restoration. Come for the decor and the story.

    CairoTalaat Harb, Downtown

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Café Riche

    Downtown's café of writers and conspirators, opened in 1908.

    CairoTalaat Harb, Downtown

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The Metropole hotel on Saad Zaghloul square — the Trianon occupies its ground floor

    Trianon

    An early twentieth-century patisserie and brasserie, painted ceilings intact, on Saad Zaghloul Square.

    AlexandriaSaad Zaghloul, Raml

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Bab Zuweila

    The southern gate of Fatimid Cairo, topped by two Mamluk minarets you can climb.

    CairoDarb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Qalawun Complex

    A madrasa, a mausoleum and a hospital from 1284, in the middle of al-Muizz street.

    CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Dahshur

    Two of Snefru's pyramids, one of them changing angle halfway up, and nothing like Giza's crowds.

    GizaDahshur

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Memphis

    A capital of three thousand years, down to a fallen colossus and an alabaster sphinx. Come warned.

    GizaMit Rahina

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Cairo Opera House

    Three halls on Gezira island, the Cairo Symphony Orchestra — and no main hall without a jacket.

    CairoGezira, Zamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Cairo Tower

    One hundred and eighty-seven metres midstream, and the city readable at a glance. Go up at dusk.

    CairoGezira, Zamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • Luxor Temple

    A temple in the middle of town, open after dark, with a working mosque sitting in its courtyard.

    LuxorCorniche

    €€ Mid-rangeOpen late
  • Temple of Hatshepsut

    Three white terraces set into the cliff, and the queen's name chiselled out everywhere.

    LuxorDeir el-Bahari, west bank

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • Medinet Habu

    The best-preserved temple on the west bank, with colour still clinging to the ceilings.

    LuxorWest bank

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • The Ramesseum

    The colossus of Ramesses II lies in pieces in his own courtyard: it is the statue behind 'Ozymandias'.

    LuxorWest bank

    €€ Mid-rangeUNESCO
  • Luxor Museum

    Our favourite

    A museum that chose to show little, and to show it well. Keep it for the hot hours.

    LuxorCorniche

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly