• A row of high stools along a white-tiled bar counter.

    Cairo Cellar

    A basement bar in Zamalek, discreet and full of long-standing regulars.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Le Grillon

    A hidden courtyard terrace behind a busy street, a refuge for writers and journalists.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • Alexandria Opera — Sayed Darwish Theatre

    A 1921 Italian-style auditorium, the city's finest stage.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Naama Bay at night

    Sharm's historic promenade, its terraces, its neon and its touts.

    Sharm el-SheikhNaama Bay, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • The Karnak sound and light show

    Walking the hypostyle hall at night, lit, while the temple tells its story.

    LuxorKarnak, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The Philae sound and light show

    A temple on an island, lit, reached by boat in the dark.

    AswanAgilkia island, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Two stone colossi carved into the cliff face, under a blue sky.

    The Abu Simbel sound and light show

    The colossi of Ramesses II lit beside Lake Nasser, once the coaches have left.

    AswanAbu Simbel

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A bazaar stall lit at night, hanging lanterns and rows of alabaster figurines spilling onto the pavement.

    Hurghada's Mamsha at night

    The pedestrian promenade where Hurghada gathers after sunset.

    HurghadaMamsha, Hurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • Ras Abu Galum

    Off the beaten track

    A reserve reached by camel, where the mountain drops straight into the reef.

    SinaiBetween Dahab and Nuweiba, South Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeDiving / snorkelling
  • The Blue Lagoon

    A shallow lagoon at the end of a track, where the sea becomes a turquoise pool.

    SinaiNorth of Dahab, South Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Serabit el-Khadim

    Off the beaten track

    A temple of Hathor perched at 800 metres, at the end of a two-hour climb.

    SinaiSouth Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Sharm el-Luli

    A white sand beach and clear water, with not a hotel on the horizon.

    Marsa Alam & the Red SeaSouth of Marsa Alam

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • The Strait of Tiran

    Four reefs in a row across the strait, and one of the country's finest boat days.

    Sharm el-SheikhOff Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeDiving / snorkelling
  • Ras Sudr

    A shallow lagoon and wind every day: the kitesurf spot closest to Cairo.

    SinaiRas Sudr, North Sinai

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • Bir Wahed

    A hot spring in the middle of the dunes, and a salt lake a few hundred metres away.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    €€ Mid-rangeSunset
  • The Black Desert

    Hills capped with dark basalt, on the road to the White Desert.

    The oases and the Western DesertBahariya

    €€ Mid-rangeBest in the morning
  • The Avenue of Sphinxes

    Unmissable

    Two kilometres and seven hundred sphinxes between Luxor and Karnak, reopened after forty years of excavation.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The gilded face of an Egyptian sarcophagus, its eyes outlined in black.

    Hurghada Museum

    The Red Sea's first archaeological museum, opened in 2020 on the airport road.

    HurghadaHurghada

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A granite pharaonic statue seen in profile, in a bright hall.

    Sharm el-Sheikh Museum

    A national museum opened in 2020, fifteen minutes from the Naama Bay hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Zed Park

    A large urban park west of Cairo, with a lake, playgrounds and restaurants.

    Sheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSheikh Zayed

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • The specialty coffee wave

    In five years, Cairo has gone from instant coffee to single-origin filter — and the roasters are Egyptian.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • New Cairo's food halls

    Twenty counters under one roof: the format that replaced the single restaurant.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Manasterly Palace

    An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.

    CairoRhoda island

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • A whole grilled fish and octopus, lemon and salad

    Port Said's fish tables

    The Delta's best fish, picked off the ice and grilled to order.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go